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3D Printed Old Time Cider Mill in HO Scale

by:Tuowei     2019-06-07

I was fascinated when I was a child (and still am)

What I was here before.

So naturally, I was drawn to simulate rail transport to reproduce the past, especially for late E-Commerce ModelingL. Moore. Mr.

From the 1950s s to the age of 70, Moore, a prolific writer of the railway model Press, is known not only for his folk writing style and gentle humor, but especially his ability to create beautiful old rural scenes.

As early as 1960s, the magazine 'Railroad Model Craftsman' published E regularly. L. Moore.

Although I like e-commerce very much. L.

In an article by RMC in September 1966, I was specifically taken to an article about the construction of the old Apple winery. When E. L.

Everything about this little structure, CAD, rapid prototyping, and even PC, is science fiction.

After more than 40 years, I still hold magazines with yellow hair and severe wear and tear, and I decided to build this structure with a rapid prototyping process instead of bas Wood, balsa and other materialsL.

Mooreused was held on 1966.

In order to avoid any gray areas in terms of copyright, I contacted the publisher Carstens publication of the Railroad Model Craftsman Magazine. Mr.

Henry Carstens was very interested in seeing the model built by this process, and he generously allowed the release of the CAD file I created for this project.

I first built a CAD model according to the drawings provided in the magazine article and exported 29 STL files, excluding additional files such as drill fixtures, apple crates, etc.

They are listed in the material list, also below, and the directions instructions I use with each material for the best results.

Anyone who wants to try this project can download them.

In addition, there are three axes.

032 'music wire, a boiler room roof support column made of 4' X4 'square styrene and a3/16' chimney wooden piles.

It should be noted that I later shortened it to 2-

1/2 ', closer to the length of E. L.

The original stack.

I also threw it on the lathe and drilled a 1/8 'hole' on the upper end, but that's not really necessary.

The original was not drilled out, nor was it obvious in the photo.

I am trying to be loyal to the shabby condition of the original structure, including the sloping condition of a large piece of siding and roof missing (

I had to turn to the lofting operation for the sake of being correct).

The photos mainly show the tools and supplies needed for assembly and finishing. TheWeld-

Acrylic Acid, Dingate and styrene are combined on 3 solvent cement and provide very good strength.

I use it for all components except for specifying CA. The CA (super glue)

I'm using the Gorilla brand, but any one is OK, though I prefer relatively slow setup and gap padding if possible.

Other tools include scissors, needle tongs and drill bits, hobby knives, jeweler pliers, tweezers, small files (

cheap set of diemakers files is useful but not required)

few small brushes

reinforcement for painting and a rule or calipers for a 6 'mechanic.

Some type of grinder is useful for parts made using music lines.

You also need the paint of your choice.

As explained in the following steps, I used a combination of the hardware shop's spray tank and a group of artist's acrylic resin, as well as the final spray of dullcote for Testor.

My existing RPT machine is a fusion deposit type with separated support material and 7 'x7' x7 working envelope, so in many ways I designed the model around the function of this machine.

Still, there are places where it's hard for me to remove the support material and in some cases I have to fix the model later.

Machines with support materials are essential for this project, but updating machines using soluble support materials will make this project easier.

Although there are many parts, most of them are small and can easily be grouped together.

The relationship between the parts in the Assembly and the materials used or STL files is shown in a set of four assembly drawings that I have expanded between several steps.

I apologize for the inconvenience this may cause, but it allows each drawing to be displayed as the main image.

STL file detailed list on the first floor.

Stand on the edge detail 2 Apple winery wall.

STL built a small, upright roof.

Build a detailed external platform.

5 steps to build the details of STLSTAND and on edge.

6 BENT stlbuild straight through the details.

Side STLLAY to build the details of the 7-end bending.

The details of STLLAY building an internal platform on the side.

Construction details 10 Truss edge STLSTAND.

Side details 13 STLBUILD on conveyor.

Side STLSTAND for construction of detailed conveyor supports.

STLLAY builds detailed 16 ramps on one side.

STLSTAND and builds 17 frame wide details on the edge.

STL laid the foundation for building the details of the 18 wide platform.

Stlstand on edge to create details 20DOOR1RH.

The STL establishes the upright detail 21DOOR1LH.

22 door2rh stlbuild straight through the details.

Details of 23 DOOR2LH stlbuild straight.

Upright, unnumbered roof.

Stlstand on end to build details 11, 12 ESEE pulley details 12 acder press base.

Stand up detail 12b grinder.

STLBUILD with leg details 12 ccder PRESS.

STLBUILD with leg details 15 abo base.

The STL built the upright detail 15 BBOILER.

STLBUILD stands on 15 c conrod at the end of the fire box.

Side STLLAY build detail 15 DFLYWHEEL.

The STLBUILD file name with the split pulley at the end of the shaft refers to the ho scale size.

Built side by side. 24X4.

24X6. STL 24X9. 5.

STL details 30X4. STL 30X6. STL 30X9. 5. STL 36X4.

STL details 12E 36X6. STL 36X9. 5. STL PULLEY JIG.

STL clamps for drilling center holes in 24 'and 36' pulleys bushel baskets, crates and barrels are located on the bottom barrel1. STL BARREL2. STL BARREL3. STL stack. STL* BUSHEL1. STL BUSHEL2. STLCRATE1. STL CRATE2.

STL * stack of empty baskets.

Use at the top of a basket to drill holes in depth or upside down.

Note: determine the direction of all stl based on the following priority-(1)

Best surface quality (2)

Easy disassembly of support materials (3)BUILD TIME-IN THAT ORDER.

There may be some adjustments to your conditions.

For the location of each component of the model, see assembly drawing set.

Before analyzing the structure, I first studied the various parts of the belt drive hardware.

I cut 3 032 'music wires to a rough length (

See details 12F, 12D and 11C, Assembly sheet 4, as shown in the next step)

On the grinding wheel, leave a considerable length of excess.

I then measure their length with a pair of calipers and grind them into the length shown in the material list.

Then I put them asideuntillater.

The pulley needs holes at least visually close to the axis at the center.

I used the lathe for this, but ended up using the RPT machine to make the drilling fixture.

I built the CAD model with concentric circles.

030 'hole, I enlarged this hole with the same #62 drillI and it will be used for the rest of the parts.

The fixture has a drilling end corresponding to the two diameters of the pulley used in this project, allowing the pulley to be inserted into the end of the fixture and drilled concentric.

After the drilling process, I inserted a piece.

032 'the wire through the hole is used to fix the pulley for painting.

They received a primer followed by a KrylonBrown boot.

Note that there are several STL files for pulleys of different sizes.

These represent the two-piece wooden pulleys commonly used in the past, and may be useful for other projects that require belt-driven hardware.

Again, please refer to the list of materials in the fourth page of the assembly drawing so that you can select the correct list of materials for this project.

I followed the lead of the initial project and did not incorporate certain details into the drive system.

I chose not to have a pillow block at each end, a hanger in the middle, etc.

I first fixed the cider press and grinder to their base and then used the krylohunter Green for primer and painting to allow the paint to dry and then proceed to the next step of assembly.

The STL file for the cider press and grinder includes the 030 'hole where the shaft is located.

I enlarged these with the #62 bit on the pin vise.

Next, I position the pulley for the grinder as shown in the drawing and push the shaft (

Drawing details 12D (4)

Until it enters the pulley.

I then dropped a drop of CA on the outside end of the shaft and then pushed the rest.

Shaft of apple wine press (detail12F)

Receive a drop of CA and then be pushed into the hole leaving enough length to install the pulley.

Then, apply another drop of CA to the end and the mounted pulley.

The assembly is then put on hold so that it can be connected to the floor later.

The following figure shows the assembly of engine and boiler parts.

Prior to assembly, the boiler base was painted with a gray primer and then brushed with the orange/brown mixture of the artist acrylic resin, followed by a thin wash of the acrylic resin of the dark gray artist, these acrylic resins settle well on the mortar line.

The boiler was shot in plain flat black, washed thin with the artist's acrylic resin, mixed in dark red with orange, and obtained the satisfying dim rust color of burt sienna.

The center of the flywheel frame is tilted, and the unpainted metal parts of the engine (

Connecting rod and wheel ring of flywheel)

Brush painted with model master steel.

Then, in addition to the chimney, the parts are glued together and the chimney becomes loose in order to facilitate the installation and removal of the roof.

Although I did not do so, the engine can be detailed with steam pipes, throttle valves and safety valves.

I may add these details in the future.

In step 8, the completed engine assembly can be set to pre-installation.

These two photos show the finished model ready to be in place for layout and details.

Assembly and finishing are important for making this project an outstanding project.

It looks very plastic and very bright and shiny because it comes from RPT machines.

I started drawing the structure before assembly.

I used the spray tank at the hardware store and the material did not show a bad effect.

Except for the exterior walls, these parts are covered with a layer of Miracal Gray primer.

I left the outside of the roof in the primer, but photographed the interior of the building, the doors and the 'wooden' pulleys (after drilling)

There is a Krylon Color called brown boots.

The first photo of this step shows the machinery ready to assemble to the floor/platform/ramp assembly, followed by the finished Assembly prepared for the wall, in addition to the conveyor remaining loose after the wall is installed.

The last photo of this step shows the floor test installed on the wall.

Before assembling the machine to the floor, I used a small diemaker file to enlarge the gap on the floor until it was perfect for the wall frame.

Next, the platform is assembled to the wall according to the drawings.

I used welding to assemble plastic parts

3. apply with a small brush. .

Once mechanically assembled onto the floor and mounted the pulley, I turned my attention to the outside of the finished structure.

Enter all the openings of the building from the inside, apply a primer, then the live application of the Krylon Brown boots, then the Rustoleum dark Brown, and some lighter colors can be seen in some places.

Once completely dry, I did a thin wash with the acrylic resin of the dark red artist, repeated as needed to get the look of the old, weathered red barn paint.

Finally, I sprayed a layer of dullcoat from Testor on everything.

Once dry, I installed the floor and applied a layer of free cement to the seam at the bottom.

Finally, the roof was washed over by the acrylic resin of the dark gray artist and repeated until I was satisfied with the look of it.

Lineshaft, which spans the entire building and is driven by an engine, carries the driving wheel of the cider press and grinder.

I put the pulley on the shaft but it is not fixed at this point.

I fixed it on the wall with a drop of CA at each end of the shaft 2-

As shown in the figure, 5/8 'from the end wall '.

Next, I align the pulleys with the engine and other machinery to fix them with a drop of CA.

I made the belt with hobby paper, hobby knife and ruler and colored it with a black marker pen.

The driving belt of the cider press and grinder is 3/64 '(. 045')

The main belt width of the engine is 7/64 '(. 110')wide.

I left them some time. 3/8' to 5/8')

, Fix them on one pulley first with CA, wrap them up with another pulley, add a drop of CA at the end and overlap them.

This works quite well but is picky and I'm not completely happy with the results so I'm still looking for a better way to make the belt.

I modeled the list of STL files and included it, putting various bushels baskets, crates and buckets on the platform of the model while placing numbers and vehicles appropriately.

One thing I haven't decided yet is a way to simulate the Apple scum, or the pulp found on the conveyor belt and piled up in a pile at the end. E.

I used something in a tea bag, but I tend to use a ground foam with the right color.

This structure will be installed on its own basis, from 1908 to disappear, and it will appear on my rolling age model railway (Yep.

This is your progress. )

Between 1936 and 1940.

However, it will certainly not appear in the 1950s or even later, especially if it is driven by a belt of a gasoline engine or tractor rather than a steam engine.

Finally, I know I enjoyed this visit in the past and hope some of you are interested in this project.

Originally intended to post STL files on 123D, but found that there were some technical issues that prevented me from doing so.

However, I will send the STL file to anyone interested.

Just email me at thomased541 @ gmail. com.

3D Printed Old Time Cider Mill in HO Scale

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