3d printing on the cheap

As some of you may know, 3D printing is getting cheaper and cheaper, but it\'s still expensive.
The price of most prints depends on the quantity.
So, how do you reduce the volume of printing in order to make it cheaper?
You can make it hollow.
I will tell you my method if you don\'t know how to do it)
It may take a lot of price.
But I have one thing and the cheapest is about $43.
If you want to make something to sell, it\'s a bit expensive for impulse buying.
So how do you reduce the volume by more without a lot of manual work?
Well, I used a tool that, to some extent, is not entirely supposed to be used.
I will show you how to cut out the volume you want from the model using 123D Make.
What do you need: a computer with 123D Make (free! ! )Blender (
Modeling the program, not the smoother. Also free! ! )-
3D model (
If you don\'t know how to make it, you can find it online for free)
3D printer or printing service.
I will use the shape way in my example as I am most familiar with them. Filler -
You can fill your model with anything.
I think the color wax will be great.
Please note that if you would like to make a cheaper prototype, please check out my instructions on cheap prototyping.
A big key to limiting the price of 3D printing is to make your items hollow.
I use a blender to do this.
I\'m terrible with Blender and they update it every time I get used to doing something.
But this method works for me.
I will write this article for people who have never used a blender.
Right-click the cube that pops up when Blender is opened.
Click the delete key, and then click delete in the pop-up.
File> import model.
Right-click on your model.
There will be a selection box at the bottom of the window that represents the object pattern.
Click it and select edit mode.
Click the key to cancel all selection.
Now there are 3 boxes with cubes at the bottom of the screen.
The first box is selected and there is a point on the corner of the cube. Got to box 3 (
Highlight the one that shows the surface of the cube)and select it.
Almost there, zoom in on your model now and select any face you open.
Right-click the square in the center of the face to select it.
If the face is part of the plane to be opened, hold down Ctrl, Alt, Shift, and press F.
This will select all the linked faces on that plane.
Click on the delete key, and this time there are more options in addition to delete.
Click FacesSwitch this time to return to object mode and right-click your model again.
On the right is a set of tools.
Click on the wrench (
It displays the object modifier when you mouse over).
A drop-down list will appear with the words \"add modifier\" and click on the list and select \"cure \".
A new box will pop up, click in the thickness field, and set the thickness to the minimum thickness allowed by the material.
As far as my example is concerned, our target is the shape channel WSF with minimum thickness. 7mm.
This is a larger model, so our target is 1mm for safety.
Which is safer (
Because I use inches)I\'ll use . 04 inches.
Please note that the mixer unit is the model you imported.
Click Apply, and then click File> export model as OBJ \".
If you complete the first step, you already have an OBJ.
If not, an OBJ is required for this step.
As long as it is the open file type, you can import it into Blender, Netfabb, or Meshlab (
All free programs)
And be able to export it to OBJ.
You have now opened 123D Make and imported OBJ.
There is a button on the left that says \"import \". . .
, Click this option and select the file.
After uploading, you can choose your construction technology.
Play with them and see what looks best for you.
I used interlocking slices, for example.
Now you can set up your material.
Now we have our materials.
Click the pencil under manufacturing settings.
A menu of different preset materials will pop up.
You can either select an existing material by right-clicking, and then create a copy using a double plus sign, or you can make a new material by simply clicking a single plus sign.
Set up your unit and set your material size.
The only thing that matters to us is the thickness.
Set this to the minimum thickness of the printed material.
If you don\'t go through optional hollowing parts like my example, my goal is to shape the way WSF material is.
The wall of this material is minimal. 7mm.
The project is a bit big and I want it to be a bit stronger so my target is 1mm.
Now, since I use inches to add a little bit of thickness, I will round it up. 04 inches.
Now that you have your material set up, click finish.
Now, select the new material from the drop-down list next to the pencil under manufacturing settings.
Now, if you read my prototype on cheap Instructure, you might think it\'s the same thing!
Now we will change the status quo and be ready for 3D printing.
On the left side of the screen you will have a slice distribution box.
Currently, the method is set to count by count \".
You can use it, but I want to make sure there is a certain distance between my slices (
Greater than the minimum value of the material, but not very large either).
So, I will switch from \"count by count\" to \"distance by distance \".
It should be noted here that the distance is not the distance.
Don\'t believe me?
Set the distance to be the same thickness as the material.
There will be no gap.
The distance is an offset from the previous piece.
For WSF, the minimum gap is. 5mm.
It\'s good and beautiful, but I won\'t save too much material if there is such a small gap.
Let\'s go to 3mm.
Keep in mind that I am a lazy American here, so what I am going to say is 3mm. 12 inches.
Don\'t forget, we must also increase the thickness of the material. Mines set to .
4 inch so I will set the distance. 16 inches.
Now do a visual check on your model.
Slice profiles will show floating debris by making them blue without touching anything.
Red pieces are pieces that will or may have problems when cutting.
Don\'t pay attention to red when we see that we are printing, not cutting.
Now, it\'s as simple as the file> export slice grid. Now you have an OBJ file from 123D Make and you can bring it back to the modeling software to edit it or you can continue uploading.
There are several websites that offer 3D printing services.
Google it and find your favorite.
I don\'t want to show bias so I won\'t show how to upload your parts.
I will show you an example of saving prices by shape because they are the printers I choose and show the effect of using this way.
You will see a non
The slice model of the WSF is priced at $102. 39! ! !
Wow, the sound bracket for a phone is expensive (
This is my project).
You will see that I have two different versions of the slice model.
One is designed for sandstone that requires 3mm walls and one is for WSF because I have shown you how to produce it.
Using this technology, the price of the design for sandstone is $28.
$80, $28 for WSF design. 73.
These models are not hollowed out as I have shown in optional step 1.
It will make them cheaper to do so!
After printing, you have your final product, ready to fill, surface, coating, etc.
Do whatever you want.
I will try to fill my model with some wood filler.
While they look really cool, there may be something clear.
Enjoy your discounted print!