ABS PASTE MOLDING

When you print a large number of ABS brackets, rafts, edges, etc, it will be wasted if it cannot be reused.

This instructable shows how to easily convert ABS waste in a molded object, not just throw it away, but discard the earth more.

This instructable is available for both professionals and amateur users as it is very easy and all consumables are easy to find.

So, the first thing you need to do is collect all your wasted ABS fingerprints in a box.

Secondly, you can (or not)

By color.

Third, you need enough acetone to make the ABS paste.

Last but not least, be familiar with casting/molding procedures that you can easily learn through the instuctables course.

Now let's take it step by step if you have (or not)

Group your abs waist and you need to cut it into small pieces.

Then you should put them in a glass jar.

The bigger the better)

Use an air tight lid if possible, otherwise you can make sure of this with tape.

In our paradigm, we use a small (100ml)

Since it is open, it helps us to pour it into the mold easily.

It actually depends on your mold model, but we will discuss it later.

Now put the decorations in the vase and fill them with ketone until the decorations are covered.

Then close the vase as tightly as possible.

The time it takes to melt the mixture into a uniform paste and the analogy of the ingredients/ketone varies depending on the brand and quality of the ABS you use.

In our case, it takes 24 hours for the mixture to melt.

Keep in mind that the preferred thickness of the paste is like honey.

Prepare your mold model when the decoration turns into a ketogenic paste.

What you need is to find or design a model to prevent the mold from accumulating air spots and filling easily with paste.

Designed in a way that is close to the geometry of the pyramid (or triangle)

It is easy to turn to the mold for this use.

So in our paradigm, we chose this cat, which has two 'difficult' parts.

The first one is the chin and the other is the ear, but we will tell you more about how we can fix this later.

Now you need to print your mold, because the Flexible Filament will not be dissolved by ethyl ketone, so you need to use a flexible material with proper elasticity to the mold, so that you can remove your model, it is also possible to create a waterproof mold that does not have an internal stand out or stand out so you can get a clear model.

In our example, we use a TPE printed at the lowest temperature and at the fastest speed (

It actually depends on the brand of your filament and printer).

We also use 3 layers of the underlying and top layers, 2 peripherals and 15% fill layers and 0 fill layers.

15mm resolution to achieve all the necessary features described above.

If you are using flexible filaments that are more elastic, you may need to add layers of padding and/or perimeter and top/bottom (

These factors depend on your filament, printer and mold model).

You might need to do 2-

3 Print until you find the mold that suits you.

One of the things we add to the mold is what we call 'seam cutting '.

This is actually a vertical 'guide' that can help you to open the mold like a zipper, which is very helpful to remove the molded object.

This prevents the object from breaking or cracking when it is removed from the mold, especially when the object has a difficult geometry.

In the cat's mold, we used this guide for the first time, and we were very excited about the quality of the object and the ease of use of the mold.

Also, to make sure all the air comes out of the mold, we added two 'air ducts' to our ears '.

This also seems to be very helpful and has a big impact on the quality of the model.

So now, you're ready for your mold and paste!

Step 3, you need to fix your 'seam cut' with some solid tape and start pouring your paste.

Our suggestion is to step down according to the structure of the mold. . .

So in our case, we pour the paste in three steps, tapping the mold a little at a time, so that the bubbles appear and leave the mold.

We also turn the mold a little bit, so that the paste will stick to the mold wall of the difficult part, form a cylindrical skin, and then fill it with the paste.

This helps to ensure that a good model is obtained at the end of the program.

This is the second very important solution we use to fill the difficult part of the mold.

We waited for 12 hours, each part hardened, the last part, we left the mold for 3 days and hardened as hard as possible!

Now is the time to show the model.

We can remove the tape, open the 'seam cut' and start to remove the mold if you have small parts that are sticking out, like the cat's ears in our case.

Don't worry about whether some layers in the 3d printing mold are visible on the model.

This means that the paste sticks well to the wall, otherwise you will see bubbles, cracks, etc.

As the whole procedure worked well in the first trial, we repeated the process more carefully and achieved almost perfect results this time!

Depending on the mold design, you can try a different thickness (

Less thick means you make it easier for the air to escape)

Acetone can also dissolve PLA, but ABS is better in theory.

Finally, you should keep in mind that when your paste is hardened, your volume may be reduced by evaporation of acetone.

It also depends on the thickness you paste, which is why the technology needs to be partially completed as it prevents leaving holes, gaps and gaps.

At the end of this instructable, we would like to add that you can add another great process to this technique, which is really helpful to put the mold with paste into the air vacuum, so you are 100% sure there is no air in the mold.

In this case, you should fill all your molds with less thick paste than we use in this paradigm, vacuum, refill it if needed, vacuum again, and let it dry again for at least 2 days.

This should be enough in this case.

If it's not a simple recharge-

Vacuum program again

In addition, you can fix your model with all known post-processing and painting 3d printing techniques, and you can find a lot of this technology in various instructions.

Thank you very much for your time.

We hope you can come up with some beautiful designs, more details that can help all the communities.

We will wait for your feedback! ! ! !

In addition, you can fix your model with all known post-processing and painting 3d printing techniques, and you can find a lot of this technology in various instructions.

Thank you very much for your time.

We hope you can come up with some beautiful designs, more details that can help all the communities.

We will wait for your feedback! ! ! !

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