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Cheapest Portable 3D Printer

by:Tuowei     2019-08-10
Hi, this is my second note, so please accept me as a minor.
This is the 3D printer I made, it is very simple, portable and cheap.
For some, the production of the 3D printer itself can be a hard job.
But I can say that if you have a basic understanding of how a 3D printer works and knowledge, it\'s simple but time consuming.
In this structure, I will provide a full HD description of how to build the 3D printer and software section from start to finish.
In short, if you fully understand this instruction (all the steps)
You can then easily create and print your own model yourself.
The printer we want to make is a finite difference printer (
Model of molten deposition).
This model works by melting the plastic filaments and depositing them in the layers below.
After each layer is completed, the extruder rises and continues to deposit the top of the previous layer until the model is fully printed out.
Trust me if this is your first 3D printer then the end result will surprise you.
It will be interesting to make.
Before you start making a printer, go through the article until the last step.
The last step is an important one, don\'t skip it.
I will divide the steps from start to finish into 4 parts: 1.
Building Structure 2
Upload and install software 3.
Test and debug 4.
Print your dreams and let\'s start :)
The part of this project is easy to find on ebay and other sites.
I am listing the required parts and suggested tools.
The hot bed is Type Y.
The axis of the printer.
It is mounted on the base.
complete description of cutting and assembly is given in the picture. Y-
The shaft movement consists of the motor belt assembly.
Get the component as shown in the figure.
The motor bracket is used to maintain the Z-of the motor-Axis.
This motor bracket is simple to make.
This picture itself illustrates this. The Z-
The shaft frame, as the basic frame, adds strength to the printer.
The frame measurement is carried out randomly, bearing in mind the space in which the extruder moves for its space. X-
The shaft is the support extruder and X-
Axis assembly sliding on ZAxis Assembly. The X-
The shaft assembly is screwed to the drawer channel of Z-
The axis that moves up and down. The X-
Assemble the shaft assembly as shown in the figure. The X-
The shaft assembly slides along the Z direction through the screw.
These screws are placed through the fixed nut held by the x-axis assembly.
Therefore, when the screw is rotated by the motor, the x-axis assembly moves up and down.
This nut assembly is also shown in the picture. X-
The shaft assembly consists of the motion of the extruder.
As shown in the figure, the extruder assembly is fixed.
Repairing an electronic part is a vital part because it should be fairly hidden, should be less confusing and easy to debug.
Displays the location of the ramp, Arduino, motor driver and power outlet.
Due to the high portability requirements of the printer, the handle is provided at the top.
SMPS is located at the bottom of the printer.
The red wire is 5 v, the yellow 12 v, and the black wire is grounded.
To open the SMPS, the green wire will be in contact with the black wire.
So we keep a switch between the two to turn SMPS on and off.
The wiring guide is given in the figure.
Part of the test is to check if the parts and movements are working.
Attach arduino code.
Upload to arduino and test with serial monitor.
The code is simple and can be modified according to your convenience.
In the software section, we need 3 things to make the printer work properly.
Here is the process to follow for printing objects.
We need a file that contains the object.
They\'re all inside. stl formats.
You can design a new object or a previously completed design.
Thingiverse makes a lot of objects.
Stl file is a very good website for 3D printers.
The next step is to convert this file to g code, which is the instructions for the 3D printer.
We need a piece of software to do this.
There are a lot of software such as slicer and cura.
I prefer Cura because it\'s easy to handle.
After converting this into g code, we need to send this code to the printer through an interface.
While cura supports plugins, it\'s a good habit to have another interface.
Software like repetier has different software
Host, front face, etc.
I used a face spin.
The next step is to have a firmware in the Arduino to explain the g code and take action accordingly.
For this we use the Marlin firmware.
Instructions for using these are given in the following steps.
So what we need is: Download them: pMarlin firmware is the code for Arduino.
It\'s almost the right Review.
Although it\'s a collection of some header files, we don\'t have to worry too much.
Just modify the code as you said and you can go.
The code for the printer will be fine-tuned later. 1.
Change the motherboard open configuration.
H file and change the motherboard as follows: # ifndef motherboard # define motherboard _ ram _ 13_efb # endif2.
Change the temperature setting in the configuration.
H File change the code for the following settings: # define temporary _ sensor _ 0 5 # define temporary _ sensor _ 1 0 # define temporary _ sensor _ 2 0 # define temporary _ sensor _ Bed 5\"4.
Now upload the Marlins.
From ino to Arduino via Arduino IDE.
It is very simple to set the front face.
Insert the printer and start the pronterface.
It automatically detects the com port.
Now set the baud rate seen in the configuration (
# Define wave rate 250000)
In the face.
You can see that the printer is connected on the front.
Test if everything works.
The test extruder sets the \"heat\" to 250 degrees and then you can see the chart rising.
If not, it\'s a mistake. 2.
Test the hot bed to set the \"bed\" to 70 degrees and you can see the rising figure.
If not, it\'s a mistake. 3.
Test the X, Y, and Z axes press the minimum distance in the arrow to make each arrow move.
You can tune in if everything is good.
Testing and tuning is the easiest but most important step because it determines the quality of printing and the perfection of printing.
There are 4 things to test.
Each step is similar.
So learn how to do this and apply to all the rest. Adjust X-
To do this, axis has a good measurement scale. Home the X-
Through the axis of the front surface.
Mark the current X position of the extruder.
Now press the button to move X-Axis 100mm.
Now measure the offset generated by the extruder.
If it\'s the perfect 10mm, you can go.
Other configurations.
File, and use the \"default _ axis _ steps _ per _ unit\" statement.
In my example, it gives the following: # define default _ axis_steps _ per _ unit {78. 7402,78. 7402,200. 0*8/3,760*1. 1}
The values here are X, Y, Z and extruder, respectively.
Now divide the value found in the code by the actual distance moved in mm and multiply it by 100.
The value you get is the value in the code that replaces the old value.
Formanew val = (
Old val/distance to move in mm)
* 100 there are different ways to do this, but I find that this method is practical and works well.
Now, for all the shafts and the extruder, keep doing this and you can print your first print.
To print your dream, I would suggest printing a sample object so you can see how it is done.
I prefer calibration blocks that are easy to print.
Sample calibration block attached. Open the .
Stl file in Cura.
You can drag the object to the space you need. 1.
Set the diameter of the filament to 1.
The dia I use is 75mm.
In the advanced Panel, set the nozzle size to 0.
4mm all other settings you are using can be left as is.
You can change if you know what they are. 3.
Now Save g code => Save G code 4 from file.
Now connect the printer and turn on the pronterface5.
Open the g code file in pronterface6.
Put all the axes at home before printing so you can see if everything is OK. 7.
Press print now, please don\'t worry if you have a problem printing.
There are many things that can go wrong.
Many adjustments need to be made before the first print is correct. Enjoy! !
There are many important things to know before printing.
Both printing and prototyping were enjoyable.
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