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Guide to Slic3r
by：Tuowei
2019-09-10
The main g-
The code processor for the RepRap 3D printer can be a bit daunting when you\'re just starting to use a new printer.
This can be very frustrating when a small setting turns off a millimeter and your entire print is broken.
So I decided to write this guide.
I\'ll go through each setting and help you decide exactly how to slice the specific model you\'re trying to print.
So let\'s get started and vote if that helps!
The job of Slic3r is to get your 3D model (. STL or .
The most common is OBJ.
And change it to a GCODE file.
The Gcode file is basically just a bunch of X, Y, and Z coordinates that keep telling the printer to move the extruder to the next position. To change the .
However, from STL to gcode, Slic3r requires a lot of information about how to print the model.
Next, I will tell you how to give this information. Read on.
The layer height determines the resolution of the print.
This is very important if you are printing a detailed or very small model.
The smaller the layer height is set, the higher the resolution.
But there is a problem: it takes longer to print because it has to do more layers.
The above is a comparison between the height of some different sample layers.
To set the layer height in Slic3r, click the print settings tab next to Plater.
In the first category that appears, layer and perimeter sets the layer height.
I usually do 0 according to experience. 25 millimeters.
This is faster than some, but the overall print quality will be good.
After that, set the first level of height to 0. 35.
The shell is like a 3D printed exterior wall.
They cover the filling inside and make the printing complete smoothly.
They also help to strengthen printing, so more shells or more layers of walls will provide more tough parts.
To set the shells in Slic3r, just scroll down and change them.
I usually set them all to 3, which is solid but still printing fast.
In order to save the filament and shorten the printing time, g-
The code generator creates a grid-like structure inside the object, called infill.
This is contrary to the full filler body, it takes a long time to print the object, or on the other hand, to print the completely hollow object, the printing effect is very weak.
Click the fill category under the print settings tab.
Then set the fill density as needed.
Do 50 to 100% if you want a powerful part.
If you are printing something that will not be stressful, 10 to 50% will work properly.
The next thing to set is the fill mode.
I usually use the honeycomb because the honeycomb is very strong even if the density of the filling is very low, but any other Honeycomb works just as well.
A very important setting in Slic3r is speed.
As with 2D printers, 3D printers produce lower quality printing when printing quickly, but this is of course the easiest way to shorten the printing time.
The key to printing speed is to know where to tell the printer to be fast and where to be slow.
Here are some general speed tips: click on the speed category under the print settings tab.
Use the tips above and the images I usually configure to make a good speed for your model.
Keep in mind that if you want more details and quality, please slow down a bit.
Skirt options in Slic3r are not important, but can be useful at times.
It squeezes out a loop around your object, and it\'s just for the extruder to clear before you start printing.
I usually use it because it\'s not hard and there are fewer prints that cause damage.
The edges are very useful if there is a problem with your bed adhesion (
Objects do not stay on the printed surface)
Because when there is not enough surface area at the bottom of the model, the problem of bed layer adhesion usually occurs.
Brim fixed the model by making a single layer.
You may want to use brim if your model is small.
I usually do about 10mm when I use it.
Note: the skirt and edge cannot be enabled at the same time, or the edge will try to print on the skirt and move the extruder up.
If you have brim enabled, it can also do the work of the skirt.
Supporting materials are very important in 3D printing.
Without it, you can only print the model without any highlighting.
The 3D printer is unable to squeeze the filament into the air because of course it will drooping and the model will not print correctly.
To fix this, you can print the stand, usually a thin post, and have the printer build something on it.
To set up support materials in Slic3r, click the support materials tab under print settings, and then click the check box to enable it.
Keep the \"hanging point threshold\" to 0 because Slic3r is very good at detecting which areas need support.
Also leave \"mandatory support for the first layer\" to layer 0.
Skip the \"raft layer\" and we will introduce it later.
On the options panel, change the pattern to the best choice for the model.
The best thing about the support material pattern is the post, but use the honeycomb material if you need a lot of support.
The pattern spacing should be around 2. 5 mm.
Keep the \"pattern angle\" at 0 unless you want to rotate the support.
I always set the \"interface layer\" to 1 because it is easier to delete the support.
All 3D printers are different though, so you have to try your printer.
Then leave the interface pattern spacing to 0mm and check the bridge not supported box.
Now, the print settings tab is complete!
Under the filament settings tab, change the extruder temperature to the melting point of the filament.
Generally speaking, the PLA is 80c and the ABS is 30c.
You can also set the bed heat according to your filament instructions.
At the top of the temperature, set the \"filament diameter\" to the filament size (usually 1. 75 or 3 mm)
And keep the extrusion multiplier in.
If you print in PLA, you may want to turn on the extruder fan when printing.
To do this, click the cool tab under filament, and then click the checkbox to enable auto\"cooling\".
When all the settings are completed, it\'s time to load the 3D model.
Slic3r is supported. OBJ and . STL files.
To load one, go back to the Plater tab at the top and click the Add button right below it.
Browse to the 3D file and select it.
Now you can scale, rotate, and view the model through the command bar at the top.
When ready, click export G-
The \"code\" button on the right.
Browse to the folder where you want to place g-
Code file, then click save. It will slice (
This may take a while)
Send g-after completion-
Code for the printer and print it out!
Note: Please try the following website if you need to print some models: Thingiverse, YouMagine or Grabcad.
Thanks for reading, hope to help you!
If so, please vote!
The code processor for the RepRap 3D printer can be a bit daunting when you\'re just starting to use a new printer.
This can be very frustrating when a small setting turns off a millimeter and your entire print is broken.
So I decided to write this guide.
I\'ll go through each setting and help you decide exactly how to slice the specific model you\'re trying to print.
So let\'s get started and vote if that helps!
The job of Slic3r is to get your 3D model (. STL or .
The most common is OBJ.
And change it to a GCODE file.
The Gcode file is basically just a bunch of X, Y, and Z coordinates that keep telling the printer to move the extruder to the next position. To change the .
However, from STL to gcode, Slic3r requires a lot of information about how to print the model.
Next, I will tell you how to give this information. Read on.
The layer height determines the resolution of the print.
This is very important if you are printing a detailed or very small model.
The smaller the layer height is set, the higher the resolution.
But there is a problem: it takes longer to print because it has to do more layers.
The above is a comparison between the height of some different sample layers.
To set the layer height in Slic3r, click the print settings tab next to Plater.
In the first category that appears, layer and perimeter sets the layer height.
I usually do 0 according to experience. 25 millimeters.
This is faster than some, but the overall print quality will be good.
After that, set the first level of height to 0. 35.
The shell is like a 3D printed exterior wall.
They cover the filling inside and make the printing complete smoothly.
They also help to strengthen printing, so more shells or more layers of walls will provide more tough parts.
To set the shells in Slic3r, just scroll down and change them.
I usually set them all to 3, which is solid but still printing fast.
In order to save the filament and shorten the printing time, g-
The code generator creates a grid-like structure inside the object, called infill.
This is contrary to the full filler body, it takes a long time to print the object, or on the other hand, to print the completely hollow object, the printing effect is very weak.
Click the fill category under the print settings tab.
Then set the fill density as needed.
Do 50 to 100% if you want a powerful part.
If you are printing something that will not be stressful, 10 to 50% will work properly.
The next thing to set is the fill mode.
I usually use the honeycomb because the honeycomb is very strong even if the density of the filling is very low, but any other Honeycomb works just as well.
A very important setting in Slic3r is speed.
As with 2D printers, 3D printers produce lower quality printing when printing quickly, but this is of course the easiest way to shorten the printing time.
The key to printing speed is to know where to tell the printer to be fast and where to be slow.
Here are some general speed tips: click on the speed category under the print settings tab.
Use the tips above and the images I usually configure to make a good speed for your model.
Keep in mind that if you want more details and quality, please slow down a bit.
Skirt options in Slic3r are not important, but can be useful at times.
It squeezes out a loop around your object, and it\'s just for the extruder to clear before you start printing.
I usually use it because it\'s not hard and there are fewer prints that cause damage.
The edges are very useful if there is a problem with your bed adhesion (
Objects do not stay on the printed surface)
Because when there is not enough surface area at the bottom of the model, the problem of bed layer adhesion usually occurs.
Brim fixed the model by making a single layer.
You may want to use brim if your model is small.
I usually do about 10mm when I use it.
Note: the skirt and edge cannot be enabled at the same time, or the edge will try to print on the skirt and move the extruder up.
If you have brim enabled, it can also do the work of the skirt.
Supporting materials are very important in 3D printing.
Without it, you can only print the model without any highlighting.
The 3D printer is unable to squeeze the filament into the air because of course it will drooping and the model will not print correctly.
To fix this, you can print the stand, usually a thin post, and have the printer build something on it.
To set up support materials in Slic3r, click the support materials tab under print settings, and then click the check box to enable it.
Keep the \"hanging point threshold\" to 0 because Slic3r is very good at detecting which areas need support.
Also leave \"mandatory support for the first layer\" to layer 0.
Skip the \"raft layer\" and we will introduce it later.
On the options panel, change the pattern to the best choice for the model.
The best thing about the support material pattern is the post, but use the honeycomb material if you need a lot of support.
The pattern spacing should be around 2. 5 mm.
Keep the \"pattern angle\" at 0 unless you want to rotate the support.
I always set the \"interface layer\" to 1 because it is easier to delete the support.
All 3D printers are different though, so you have to try your printer.
Then leave the interface pattern spacing to 0mm and check the bridge not supported box.
Now, the print settings tab is complete!
Under the filament settings tab, change the extruder temperature to the melting point of the filament.
Generally speaking, the PLA is 80c and the ABS is 30c.
You can also set the bed heat according to your filament instructions.
At the top of the temperature, set the \"filament diameter\" to the filament size (usually 1. 75 or 3 mm)
And keep the extrusion multiplier in.
If you print in PLA, you may want to turn on the extruder fan when printing.
To do this, click the cool tab under filament, and then click the checkbox to enable auto\"cooling\".
When all the settings are completed, it\'s time to load the 3D model.
Slic3r is supported. OBJ and . STL files.
To load one, go back to the Plater tab at the top and click the Add button right below it.
Browse to the 3D file and select it.
Now you can scale, rotate, and view the model through the command bar at the top.
When ready, click export G-
The \"code\" button on the right.
Browse to the folder where you want to place g-
Code file, then click save. It will slice (
This may take a while)
Send g-after completion-
Code for the printer and print it out!
Note: Please try the following website if you need to print some models: Thingiverse, YouMagine or Grabcad.
Thanks for reading, hope to help you!
If so, please vote!
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