modify sharp dlp projector (xg-mb70xa) for sla 3d printing
This is really about Sharp\'s XG- MB70X DLP projector, not only about how I found it, but not about the 3D printer itself, but first of all I want to mention something about these topics. My printer was inspired by the excellent Instructure \"Chimera: $60 DLP High- Res 3D printer for MatstermindChimera-60-DLP-resin-3d-printer. If you want to build a top Under the SLA printer, you should really look at that article. The projector I use is sharp XG- MB70X DLP projector. I think it is worth mentioning that I was able to purchase from the remaining sales of the local university for $40. It was sold as- Yes, I\'m not sure if this is up to the job, but for $40 it only took 187 hours and the refund guaranteed it to work properly, I think I have at least a decent movie projector. Side note: until recently, I had no idea that most public schools would have had such surplus sales every once in a while, and some municipalities did the same. There are real bargains for all kinds of things, from office furniture ( Almost perfect office chair for example $5)to computers ($100 laptops - Flat screen $30 22) DLP projector . . . . . . The list continues. But enough . . . . . . Let\'s get it . . . . . . Projector . . . . . . MB70X is a beautiful 1024x768 3000 lumens beamer that is perfect for building SLA printers. It can cure Maker Juice Sub G without modification, but it is a slow treatment . . . . . . 30 to 60 seconds per piece. I didn\'t have enough patience so I decided to check in and remove the UV filter. It turns out that once you get over the confusion about whether you want to risk screwing it up and killing the projector, it\'s pretty easy. I am writing this article to make it easier for you to make this decision . . . . . . You can do that. I did it in about 30 minutes and now, with the removal of the UV filter, it will heal a layer in 8 seconds . . . . . . 3 If you put it on the brightest setting, however, it starts to shrink and curl before it can stick to the first layer . . . . . . Not good. You really need to take some time to adjust the build process . . . . . . I think it\'s OK, but more work needs to be done. Standard disclaimer: If you follow these steps, I will not take any responsibility for any harm to you or others. I do not take any responsibility for your projector damage. Removing the UV filter will void the warranty on the projector. After removing the UV filter, you need to take protection when using the projector. I use the UV shield. when I use the projector, 99% of the UV protection sunglasses . . . . . . Sunscreen may also be required if your skin is very fair and/or in any way susceptible to sunburn or other sun-related issues. Note: my skin on the back of my hand was burned. You \'ve been warned by now, so let\'s get started. I partially disappeared from memory here . . . . . . I did this 3 weeks ago and took pictures but haven\'t come back to write this article yetup until now. If you find something different from what I described, I\'m sorry . . . . . . Please leave a comment to correct any mistakes I may have made and I will eventually incorporate it into the main document. Give an overview of the basic steps first. 1) Disassemble the fixture assembly. This is a consumer maintenance task with good documentation. Remove all screws that hold the case together. One of the lamp covers. 3 screws along the front edge, one in the middle of the chassis, two in the rear corner, and one in the center of the top on the rear side where the connector is located. 3) Remove the top cover of the projector. 4) Now that we are already inside, unplug all the connectors on the motherboard. 5) Remove the screws that fix the motherboard. 6) Remove the motherboard. 7) Identify the light path and find the lid in each section. We just need to turn on the one closest to the light. 8) Find the UV filter holder and one of its fixing screws. 9) Remove the screw and then gently and carefully pull out the filter assembly with tweezers or needle nose pliers. OK, these simple overview steps may be enough for some who have done this once or twice, but if not, I will provide some details and photos to help you . . . . . . I know it will help me. Turn the bottom of the projector up and find the lamp door. Screw down the fixing screw. Slide the door to one side and lift it up. Now remove two fixing screws from the fixture assembly . . . . . . Then stick them to the magnet and put them in a small bowl . . . . . . Note their type and size for re-installationassembly. Now grab the bail at the top and pull up hard . . . . . . Just twist it a little, just don\'t pull it to one side too much. Put the fixture assembly in a very safe position. The picture shows the position of all screws. Again make sure you take note of the type and size of the screws and place them in a safe place. Turn the projector to the right. The rest of the work will be done from the top. Press hard on the black side panel and you should hear the pop-up at the top. There is no electrical connection to the top cover, so you can lift the top cover now. After opening the chassis, all motherboard wire connectors are immediately visible and must be disconnected so we can remove the motherboard. The picture shows the location of all connectors. Most connectors must pull out the swing directly as needed. Now remove the screws that fix the motherboard. The photo shows the position of all screws. Carefully lift the front of the motherboard . . . . . . If I miss any of the screws in my photos, you will know. When you mention it, you will feel that the main connection under the motherboard is free. The second photo is the connector. . . It must be re-adjusted during the re-adjustmentassembly. You need to pull a little forward when it pops up for free, it should be free and easy to lift up. Put the motherboard in a safe place. Position the initial beam path cover ( See Steps photo below) , Remove the 4 screws that hold it in place and remove the lid. There are some wires on this cover. Removing the tape from the wire is probably the easiest. Warning: This part is exposed to fragile glass-colored wheels. Please be very careful not to damage it as the projector will not work if the color wheel is damaged. After removing the lid, you will easily notice the color wheel opposite the lamp. Right in this compartment, the UV filter is closest to the light. It is in a bracket attached to the bottom of the compartment via a screw. Remove the screw and lift the UV filter assembly from the projector. You may want to keep the UV filter if you want to replace it. In the re-production, I attached it to the inside of the boxassembly. Well almost. Reverse the disassembly step and put the projector back together. You can use the projector in a 3d printer. Standard disclaimer take 2: The projector is dangerous now. I am adding a warning tag to my exterior stating that the UV filter has been removed. Again: if you follow these steps, I will not take any responsibility for any harm to you or others. I do not take any responsibility for your projector damage. Removing the UV filter will void the warranty on the projector. After removing the UV filter, you need to take protection when using the projector. I use the UV shield. when I use the projector, 99% of the UV protection sunglasses . . . . . . Sunscreen may also be required if your skin is very fair and/or in any way susceptible to sunburn or other sun-related issues. Note: my skin on the back of my hand was burned.