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Mother\'s Day Gifts for Tech Moms

by:Tuowei     2019-08-10
Hello everyone, a little Introduction and Background: My name is Dave and I am from Bristol, UK.
At the end of last year, I tried it and after a lot of research and questions, I bought myself a 3D printer.
The printer I chose is Lulzbot taz5.
This printer is a product of Aleph Objects Inc. in Colorado, USA
I now point out that I don\'t have any contact with the company other than buying one of their printers.
I found this printer very good, very reliable and happy to use.
As important as the printer is, the customer support for Lulzbot is amazing, not an exception in fact!
For those interested here, this is a small video I made through the printer unpacking and setup: I have been using the printer to print everything from art sculpture to bike stand.
Not long ago I came across an open source Ciclop 3D engineering project and I think I have to build this design.
Ciclop 3D engineering is an open source project that can be built by anyone who wants to invest their time.
Therefore, all designs of components, hardware, software and firmware can be used in-line.
So this instructable is not my design, it\'s a description of how I build the Ciclop scanner.
To better adapt to my specific 3D printer, I made some minor changes to printable parts here and there.
These modifications are specifically tailored to the supporting structure needed to print the highlight.
Most of this Instructure consists of many photos, screen shots and some videos that show the progress I have made in building Ciclop, hoping to help any other
The Ciclop 3D scanner allows scanning of any suitable size object in electronic size, eventually producing a model that can be edited, operated and reproduced using a 3D printer after post-processing.
The selected object is placed on the rotating platform.
When the object rotates, two lines of laser light the object from two different angles.
The camera then scans the illuminated object at each rotating position.
The data from the camera is then used to build the 3D point cloud of the object.
The Ciclop scanner is built by the following basic building modules :-
series of plastic parts that can be produced using domestic 3D printers-
series of threaded connecting rods that hold plastic parts in position-
Microprocessor control system and firmware for local control platform motors and lasers-
High quality camera for capturing queued scan data-
pc-based software application for performing calibration, calling/controlling scans and assembling the results into the following Instructure steps to share my experience with the build, I will go through the basic components section above.
What is shown above is most Ciclop plastic parts, all of which are printed on my TAZ5 3D printer using red hip 3mm print filament, the extruder temperature of 40 °c and the printing bed temperature of 110C.
The model of the component is downloaded from thingiverse: What is the mode and mode bracket: I personally found that the support material used on the camera holder and the motor holder is not particularly good to print, not enough support was provided.
I then imported the design into the Meshmixer and removed the stand.
I then imported the unsupported model into Simplify3D and added my own custom support structure.
Unfortunately, models that include Simplify3D support structures cannot be output in STL or OBJ format.
Models with support can be exported from Simplify3D, but only in the tool\'s own factory file format.
So I can only share models including support with other Simplify3D users or provide the preparation to print Gcode.
If you are using a TAZ5 3D printer but may not be able to print on a printer of another brand, the Gcode option may be OK.
There are links to thingiverse on other aspects of the project.
However, I did find more useful links to the required project section that will be detailed in subsequent steps.
The following steps simply show my print results and photos of the assembled Ciclop mechanic. The on-
The board motor and laser control system is an Arduino-based Orno ATmega328P control board.
I usually don\'t use Arduino systems in other microprocessor-based projects I like to build bis
spoke-based control system around the most suitable PIC microprocessor for application.
However, the Ciclop project is not my design, so I venture into the world of Arduino.
While I\'m going to spend money on the Ciclop project, I\'m going to cut corners and drop the price a bit.
To do this, I first decided to buy a cheap Arduino clone board from Ebay for an incredible price of 3. 99 delivered.
The Arduino control board is the blue board for the head of this step.
The Commission is based around the ATmega328P microprocessor.
The board features a simple linear power supply, a micro-clock source, a reset button, and several LEDs.
The idea behind the Arduino system is that you take your basic control board and plug in the so-called shield on it.
Masking is an application-specific hardware board that acts as an interface between the microprocessor and anything you want to control.
This is a simple but powerful system.
The basic control board is versatile and mass produced at very low cost.
Then, the matter is left to developers and anyone else to make a series of amazing shields to perform any task you want to do.
For example, last year I built a quadcopter using a flight control system that is essentially an Arduino platform with integrated flight control shields.
Mounted on my quadcopter I have a camera frame with two axes stable
Similarly, the Arduino core has an integrated shield specific to the application.
Shielding integration makes more sense for four helicopters.
However, shielding is a more traditional piggy back interface plate for Ciclop.
Ciclop shielding provides hardware interface control for bipolar stepping motors and line laser control.
In the case of Ciclop shield, the integration goes further and uses independent bipolar stepping motor drive modules because they are very cheap to use extensively in the 3D printer and home CNC market.
To save money, I chose to buy Arduino Ciclop shield as a kit.
Arduino shield kit I purchased here on eBay: Very good purchase from this supplier, kit from UK.
In this step, we will discuss the process of downloading or programming the Arduino platform using firmware.
In this case, the firmware is essentially the code running on the Arduino atmegap microprocessor.
The board has been programmed with a boot loader, so all that is needed is to program the board using the Arduino integrated design environment or the IDE with Ciclop firmware.
The process is as follows :-
After downloading the latest version of firmware from the Internet, you need horus-fw.
If you have a clone version of the Arduino board, the ino sketch file downloads and installs the methanol 40g driver.
I will elaborate on this. Authentic (non clone)
Special installation of Arduino Control Board (
As far as I know)
Use the ftdi usb to the serial interface device, so the appropriate FTDI software driver is required.
However, due to various reasons outside the scope of this manual, most clone boards now have different types of interface devices installed, requiring different drivers (CH340G).
In my experience, once this driver is installed, the motherboard is displayed as a COM port and everything else is running as expected.
Connect the IDE to the motherboard via the appropriate COM port (
Look in the list of Windows device drivers to determine the correct COM port)(View screenshot)-
Select Board type (View screenshot)-
Select a programmer (View screenshot)-
Loading the firmware sketch (View screenshot)-
If you\'re new to the Arduino business, it\'s worth trying to upload a sketch to boardo\'s thing, that\'s to load a sample sketch first to convince you that everything works fine.
There is a bunch of sample sketches under the IDE file menu-
One of them is simply the blink of an eye.
The uploaded sketch flashed an LED on the Arduino UNO board.
So at this stage you don\'t need to install the Ciclop shield, just upload the flicker and check if the motherboard LED is flashing.
Once you\'re happy, you can start loading the Ciclop sketch and programming the board.
The entire programming process of the Ciclop firmware takes only a few seconds.
The camera used is a Logitech C270 HD webcam from eBay.
Once you have the camera, you need to install the camera driver.
I downloaded the driver from here: the camera just snuggled up to the top of the camera holder.
The USB cable extends down through the camera holder and extends outward from the base.
Note that in my case the COM port is com12.
However, for you
Under the Windows Control Panel, open the Device Manager and check which COM port is assigned.
After the firmware programming is successful, you can insert the laser/motor control shield into the Arduino board-
The controller is now ready to be integrated into the Ciclop scanner.
This series of images shows that the Arduino UNO control board and the laser/Motor Control Board are installed together.
This is a good point to warn, as there may be problems with the shield/Arduino combination if you do not accept the suggestion from the shield vendor.
In eBay\'s description of the shield, it clearly states that ideally the Arduino UNO board used should be fitted with a mini USB connector.
This is because the UNO board with the larger USB connector installed will damage the 12 v power connector installed on the shield
You can see this problem in the photo.
I didn\'t follow the advice given, so had to put down the welding profile under the power connector and use double layer Kapton tape to prevent short circuit.
For the more appropriate Arduino mini board, I will search for \"Arduino mini USB\" on eBay \".
The shield works well for the first time and is the best value for money available at the moment --
You can build it, which adds fun!
I think it is worth connecting the motor to the laser/motor control shield.
I bought my motor from eBay and it has a connector on the side and a plug for about 1 m cablevery nice.
However, it may not be obvious how the four connections of the motor are connected to the motor controller.
I did quite a bit of work with the stepping motors and it never stopped to surprise me as to how many error messages on the internet about their connection.
There are two main types of stepping motors: single-pole and double-pole.
This special motor is a bipolar motor with four lines.
Basically, there are two coils inside the motor, two wires on each coil
So it\'s a four-wire interface.
The laser/motor control shield has a four pin head labeled 2b2a1 a1 bpins 1 and 1B, connected to a motor coil, and 2 and 2B connected to the second motor coil.
View the attached image of the specific motor I am connected to, as shown below: 1-Black1B -Green2 -Red2B -
The BlueThis connection ensures that the motor runs correctly and rotates in the right direction.
The motor I use is marked with: JK42HS40-1704-
The laser used in the project is a 5 MW Focus line laser, again sourced from eBay.
Each laser has a rotatable diffraction lens mounted on the front, which projects a laser line that can focus the laser line by rotation.
The printed laser holder plastic parts are obviously used for lasers with a smaller diameter, so my laser is not suitable.
I can import the laser holder model and then modify it and re-printed . . . . .
It was very late at that stage, so I just drilled the plastic to 12mm and then popped the laser inside.
I extend the fly leads to each laser with spare red/black wires that are left after cutting the motor leads to length.
All leads are welded and then fixed with a heat shrink cover.
Two lasers are connected to the laser/motor control shield as shown below: left laser connection port 1 right laser connection port 2 red lead is connected to the internal pin closest to the motor controller, the black lead is connected to most of the pins on the outside closest to the edge of the board.
Here is the link to the laser I use: the mechanical structure of the scanner is quite obvious.
However, there is an excellent video that shows everything in detail: the PC/Linux Horus app can be found here: when all documents are doing so well, did not see the meaning of explaining the software operation in detail.
To get good results, I would suggest reading all the documents, not just in depth.
There is not so much to read and you will get a good result in ten minutes.
This video is just a quick look at the completed scanner before performing the calibration.
After reading the document, I decided to use the setup wizard and just follow the steps.
Once the calibration grid is put into the platform, the first thing is.
If you do not use the Wizard, this video will display the calibration sequence.
This video shows the scan operation.
Once you have successfully scanned an object, what you have is called a point cloud.
This point cloud is not something you can load and 3D print.
As the name suggests, it\'s just a cloud of scan points, not a printable, closed 3D mesh.
I believe there are many ways and tools to turn point clouds into 3D enclosed printable grids, but the tools I have chosen are free, open source, very good Meshlab: I don\'t admit to using or fully understanding all aspects of Meshlab, which can be very daunting when you start using it for the first time.
I use the parts I need and try and understand as much as I can.
So I think I\'ll include a step at the end of this instructable to show how I can use MeshLab to convert the point cloud obtained from the scanner to a solid printable mesh and scan the point cloud from the mesh.
The transfer color may not be that useful if you want to 3D print the scanned object, but you may want to use the scan for other purposes, in which, the color of the original point cloud scan will be very happy.
I have uploaded the results of the scan and post-processing to my web space, please feel free to download and view. Download :www. dt-space. co. uk/can_scan.
The ZipThe ZIP file contains three files: a point cloud scan obtained directly from Ciclop: can_scan.
Use the mesh created from the point cloud: can _ scan_mesh.
Mesh created from point cloud plus color: can _ scan_mesh.
This is a very interesting build and I think I have learned something new and this is the whole point.
This is a good project as it covers many different areas
3D printing, electronics, machinery, optics, software, firmware, microprocessor control, 3D image processing and post-processing.
I\'m not sure how many scanners I\'m going to use and for what purpose, but that\'s not the point.
The point is to buy something cool and put them together in order to learn new things and get more skills.
Please indicate any inaccuracies or errors that I will correct.
Also please do not make any comments or comments as I would love to hear what people think. Remember . . . . . . .
Build and have fun!
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