3d dlp printer kit assembly and calibration

This 3D printer is the result of intense testing and development by a group of serious 3D printing enthusiasts.
We love instructures, and that\'s the beginning of everything, so we\'re posting our manual here just to get used to it.
This is, after all, the main source of how you do it.
Be sure to check out our Facebook page for the latest prints and updates: the work store at Tristram Budel, everything we \'ve tested.
Every setback we encounter
Every part of our design
Every print we make
All this brings us to this moment.
All this helped us create a 3D printer from scratch.
This is a printer you have never seen before and it will shake the world of 3D printing!
Most of the steps are very simple, but additional attention is required on some specific steps.
You also need some basic skills like welding, bonding Wood and (
If you like)
Paint wooden parts according to your personal preference.
If you have any questions about the manual or printer, please feel free to contact us at the email address that comes with the kit.
Tools and materials: inform all instructions, warranties and other accompanying documents that can be changed at Atum3D\'s discretion.
Meaning of a special language warning: if not properly followed, a procedure that would result in loss of property, the probability of incidental damage and serious injury, or a high probability of causing surface damage.
Warning: Please read the complete instruction manual before operation to familiarize yourself with the function of the product.
Incorrect operation of the product will cause damage to the product and personal property and cause serious damage.
This is a complex product, not a toy.
It is necessary to operate with caution and common sense, and some basic mechanical capabilities are required.
Failure to operate this product in a safe and responsible manner may result in injury or damage to the product or other property.
This product is not suitable for children without direct supervision from adults.
Do not use incompatible components or change this product in any way outside of the instructions.
This manual contains instructions for safety, operation and maintenance.
Before assembly, installation or use, all instructions and warnings in the manual must be read and followed in order to operate correctly and avoid damage or serious injury.
Please read and comply with all usage instructions and safety precautions before use.
Improper use can cause fire, serious damage and property damage.
When components are used, electronic components may become hot.
Do not touch parts before cooling.
If there are any compatibility issues, please refer to the product description or component description.
The projector inside the 3D printer is the Acer H6510BD FHD projector.
Be sure to follow the instructions of the manufacturer before operation.
This kit includes small parts that can cause unattended children nearby due to suffocation and serious injuries.
Safe operation recommends important safety measures to choose an assembly area away from the contact of small children.
Some parts of this machine are small and can be swallowed by the child, resulting in suffocation and possible internal damage.
Please use it carefully!
The supplied resin should be kept away from children\'s contact.
Resin is harmful and should be treated with care and is not suitable for human consumption!
Be sure to wear gloves and safety glasses when using resin and solvents.
Repeated exposure to certain resins can lead to increased sensitivity and allergic reactions.
Please be careful when using any manual tools, sharp tools or electric tools during construction.
Read carefully the manufacturer\'s warnings and precautions for any chemicals, glue or paint that may be used for assembly and operation purposes.
Age recommendation: not suitable for children under 14 years of age.
This is not a toy.
Be sure to inform yourself the fullest, read the MSDS files, and if they are not provided with resin, search the manufacturer and request the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS).
If you are not sure, use your common sense at any time.
On the first 3D printers, we offer the following kit: 3D computer images show \"standard\" machines with 300mm Z-
Spindle and TR12 spindle.
Photo show \"XL\" machine for 600mm Z
Spindle and TR12 spindle.
Since the design of the printer is modular, most of all the printers are the same or similar.
Depending on the printer you choose, some of the steps in the manual are different.
Please check the relevant parts of the manual.
On the first batch of printers, we offer the option to receive machines that are fully assembled and calibrated.
This manual will help in case of trouble shooting and better understanding of the machine.
We started by assembling the \"brain\" of the printer.
The brain is the same for every printer.
The brain will be a box full of electronic devices that will control the movements of the printer.
Parts list for the entire brain Assembly: first start with the assembly of wooden parts B1, B2, B3, B4 and B5 and glue them together.
Use the attached photos to get the correct direction of the part.
You can use wood glue or hot glue gun.
Continue using the banana connector on one of the 80mm fans.
Install a male banana connector on the red wire and a female connector on the black wire.
See photos for more details.
The second 80mm fan is mounted on the wooden part b6.
Use four M3x35 bolts, M3 washers and nuts for cylinder heads.
Check the correct direction of fan flow.
Stickers for fans should be installed on wooden components.
See photos for more details.
Check if the glue is dry and (if so)
Push the on/off switch into the wood frame.
It is also possible to install the power inlet in place using a countersunk head M3x10 Bolt with washers and nuts.
Open the Arduino Mega, ramp and step drive, starting with the Arduino.
Install it in place and install three M3x10 cylinder head screws, 3 M3 washers and 3 M3 nuts.
Prepare the ramp with two wires 35 cm long (red and black)
As shown in the figure, install them on the socket of the ramp.
Bend the wire 90 degrees to make the next step easier.
Gently push the ramp on top of Arduino Mega.
Gently push the step drive to Z-motor location.
Note the correct direction in the photo. IMPORTANT!
Make sure all pins are aligned correctly and gently press the board!
The blunt force combined with the pin dislocation can cause structural damage to the two plates!
The same precautions, press the step drive on the ramp board.
Please align the pins correctly and keep an eye on the relevant photos.
Arduino where the power supply will generate energy (
By ramp)
Two more fans.
The next step is wiring.
To complete the next steps, you need the usual welding equipment.
We recommend the possibility of using a shrink sleeve to prevent short circuit.
Turn on the power and check if the input voltage is set correctly for your area (220/ 110V).
If the input voltage of the power supply is not set correctly for your area, it will be damaged when the device is powered on.
You can set the voltage through the switch on the power side.
Put the brain on a table and the power inlet is facing you up.
Place the power supply next to the power supply on the right side of the brain and connect the label up towards you.
Connect as shown in the figure and make sure all the wires go through the bottom of the brain.
The wire with the connector will pass through the wooden panel with the power inlet.
Before connecting to the power supply, we recommend tin them for proper connection.
Left-to-right: put in place wooden parts with fans installed.
Turn on the power on the side of it and put all the wires into the brain while moving the power to the appropriate position.
Insert three M3x8 counterhead bolts into the hole corresponding to the mounting hole in the power supply.
Lift the power supply slightly and tighten the three screws to keep the power in place.
Re-check that all wires are inside the brain and no wires are stuck or damaged during the process.
Position the side plates of the brain and use rubber bands to keep the components together.
Important: Do not use glue on side panels!
Later you will need to turn on the brain and connect the motor and home sensor to the ramp.
Electronic completion (
At least for now).
Clean up your workspace and put the brain aside as we need some space to assemble Z-axis.
There are some differences between standard and XL machines.
The basic principles of the two machines are the same.
The difference between the standard machine and the XL machine is: The photo shows the Z-of the XL machine-axis.
Similarly, there is no difference in the process of standard machines.
Install linear guide rail by installing linear guide rail on aluminum Z-beam.
You can identify Z-
Beams at the end of the beam, because they have 4 M6 threads at each end of the beam. Place the Z-
Place the beams horizontally on the table to make assembly easier.
Make sure you\'re facing Z-beam (see photo\'s)
If you are assembling the XL kit, make sure the side is 40mm wide up.
You can install the linear guide rail to the beam in two ways.
Please feel free to read both options and use the methods you personally prefer. Option 1)Option 2)
Tighten the bolts on the left so you can no longer slide the linear guide over Z-beam.
Give some extra turn to the other bolts until you can rotate the point of the linear guide on Z-slightlybeam.
The linear guide rail and Z-
Parallel the linear guide rail with eyes and in Z-
Do what you can. Take your (digital)
Clamp, measure the distance between the linear guide rail and the beam.
At all positions of the entire Z-length, this distance should be equalaxis.
Check whether the two ends of the beam and the linear guide rail are flush, gently tighten all the bolts in the linear guide rail bit by bit, divide the pressure evenly over the linear guide rail.
During the last round of tightening, you can fix the bolts in a very manly way, but not like the Hulk.
In a manly way, but don\'t overdo it.
Now, your linear guide rail is parallel to Z-beam.
For assembling ball spindle Z-
Shaft please continue to assemble Z-
Shaft part 3 ball spindle to install the bottom plate loosely in Z-
The beam uses four cylinder head M6x14 bolts.
Because the whole Z-
The shaft must be aligned with the linear guide.
Warning: bearing disaster is coming! !
The compartment is filled with miniature ball bearings, all fixed in place by a piece of black plastic.
Don\'t pull this black plastic out, don\'t do that.
We tried it.
Once or twice by accident)
For you, from our own experience, we can say that you can no longer find all the balls.
Do you know that after falling off the table, the steel ball can bounce nearly 1 m high?
This is two people (or girl)job.
There is one person holding the linear guide rail, while the other person can now push the carriage onto the linear guide rail.
Gently push the plastic out of the compartment using a linear guide rail.
Make sure you do this in a smooth move and don\'t flinch whatever you do.
Once you \'ve assembled some, it\'s not a big deal.
The only problem with the kit is that you can only go once.
Unless your kit has the ball spindle option, which has the same principle, this should be just one of the few stress moments when assembling the kit.
Reverse
The recoil spindle nut on the spinner grabs the spindle, paying attention to the difference at the end of the spindle.
The end of the short modification is the \"top\" of your spindle \".
The end of the modification is \"bottom \". Take the pre-
Assembly, white reverse
Bounce the nut and look at this part. The anti-
Backlash nuts include:
Both white parts have a rough TR12 thread to grab the spindle.
They held each other tightly with thin lines.
By rotating one relative to the other, you can change the distance between the two ends of the thick line.
In order to screw the complete nut onto the spindle, this spacing needs to be just right.
Anti-white nylon
The side gap nut on the spindle, the mounting hole faces the \"top\" side of the spindle.
It takes a while and some fiddling, so take a moment.
Once there is a spindle nut on the spindle, you can adjust this spacing again to eliminate any clearance (slack)
Spindle nuts may be available.
But be careful not to do too much! If the anti-
The recoil nut puts too much pressure on the spindle and the whole thing is locked and won\'t turn.
Once you are satisfied with your setup, you can tighten the small M3 screws on the side of the NUT to secure the position of the two spindle nut parts.
Assemble the end plate and bearing on the aluminum bottom plate, insert the 26x9x8 ball bearing, and insert the \"bottom\" of the spindle through the bearing \".
This end of the spindle should go all the way through the bottom plate.
Slide the aluminum bridge onto the spindle.
The spindle runs through the big hole on the bridge.
Continue, place a pink ring at the top of the spindle, followed by the bearing.
According to the length of Z-
You may need to use two pink shims to eliminate excessive play.
You can place extra pink gaskets on both sides of the bearing.
Place the second bearing on the top of the pink color ring and slide the top plate over the top bearing.
Fix the top plate loosely in Z-
Beams using four cylinder x14 cylinder head bolts.
Fix the bridge loosely on the spindle nut using two cylinder x16 cylinder head bolts, four M5 gaskets and two M5 nuts.
Install the bridge to the carriage of the linear guide rail with four M8x10 cylinder head bolts and four M8 gaskets.
After fixing the bridge to the bracket, you can tighten the two M5x16 bolts that secure the spindle nut to the bridge.
The motor, pulley and timing belt place the motor on the bottom plate and fix the motor loosely using four M3x14 cylinder head bolts and four M3 rings.
Screw a M3x6 flat head screw in each timing pulley.
Both the spindle and the stepping motor have a flat surface.
This is where the screws in the pulley will be fixed on the shaft.
Mark the position of the plane on both axes and place the belt on the pulley.
Use the belt to slide through the shaft, and slide through both axes at the same time.
Move the motor to make more space for the installation of pulleys and belts.
Now rotate the axis, align the plane with the flat head screw in the pulley, and tighten the flat head screw.
You can use a little bit of manpower to make sure they\'re tight (
The power of girls will also work)
Make sure that each pulley turns freely.
Push it back and put some tension on the belt.
That\'s it, the belt is tight, but there is no need to be too tight, when you wrap it like a guitar string, only the bat can hear it.
Install the bottom plate loosely in Z-
Beams using four cylinder x14 cylinder head bolts.
Because the whole Z-
The shaft must be aligned with the linear guide.
Warning bearing disaster approaching! !
The compartment is filled with miniature ball bearings, all fixed in place by a piece of black plastic.
Don\'t pull out this black plastic, really don\'t do it.
We have tried it for you once by chance, and from our own experience we can say that you can no longer find all directions.
Do you know that after falling off the table, the bearing can bounce nearly 1 m high?
This is two people (or girl)job.
One person holds a linear guide rail.
Now another person can gently push the plastic out of the carriage with a linear guide rail, pushing the carriage onto the linear guide rail.
Make sure you do this in a smooth move and don\'t flinch whatever you do.
Once you \'ve assembled some, it\'s not a big deal.
The only problem with the kit is that you can only go once.
Screwing the ball spindle to the ball spindle is much more difficult than installing the ladder spindle nut.
Again, there is a ball bearing disaster nearby, so be sure to be careful and it\'s better to do it with two people.
Your ball spindle nut comes with an aluminum tube inside, made of two O-rings.
This small piece of aluminum tube has the same function as the plastic in the carriage.
It holds all bearings in place.
So no matter what you do, don\'t take it out.
The ball nut has 96 very small 2mm balls, how do you guess we know?
If they fall off, they must be put back in place one by one with a pair of very fine tweezers.
It took us over 4 hours and a small amount of extra bearings to put them all back in the nut.
We did it for you, so you don\'t have. (
Please let us know if they really quit we have some inventory just in case)
Gently remove one of the O-
Ring, place one side of the spindle in an aluminum tube (
Hold the tube gently).
Gently twist on the spindle while maintaining a certain pressure on the aluminum tube so that it does not fall off unexpectedly.
To be safe, twist the ball nut all the way to the middle of the spindle.
The ball nut moves very smoothly on the spindle, and if you keep the assembly upright with the NUT, the spindle will start turning quickly and may fall off.
In this case, we really wanted to warn you because it was a real pain to put all the balls back in the nuts and we even had to order extra because we lost some balls.
Or in a more positive way, we found 92 of them.
Do you know that the ball is great in keeping momentum?
When rolling from the table, they can move more than 4 m in any random direction on our tile floor.
Continue to assemble the ball spinner to insert a ball bearing of 26x9x8 in the bottom plate and insert the long \"bottom\" end of the spindle.
This end of the spindle should go all the way through the bottom plate.
Continue, place a pink gasket at the top of the spindle and then a second 26x9x8 ball bearing.
According to the length of Z-
You may need to remove the game using two pink shims.
The pink ring is made of polypropylene, a very tough and elastic plastic.
This is to ensure that the spindle has no room to move up and down relative to z-axis.
Place the second bearing on the top of the pink color ring and slide the top plate over the top bearing.
Fix the top plate loosely in Z-
Beams using four cylinder x14 cylinder head bolts.
Place the bracket under the spindle nut and install the spindle nut on the spindle nut.
There is a slot in the spindle nut holder to hold the grease joint.
Fix the spindle nut bracket on the bracket using four \"special\" M8x45 cylinder head bolts (DIN7984).
Slide the gasket plate that comes with the spindle nut between the bracket and the nut.
Be careful not to plug the adjustment screw in the spindle nut.
Fix the bracket on the nut using four M6x14 cylinder head bolts.
Now you can slide the bridge to the mountain.
Using four cylinder x14 cylinder head bolts (
M6x10 was used in some models, both of which worked well)
There are four M6 gaskets to fix the bridge on the bracket.
The last step of Z
Axis components connect corners to Z-axis assembly.
On a standard machine, two M8 T-two corners are required
Nut and two M8x16 socket head bolts.
80x40 beam on XL machine, you need four corners, four T-
Nuts and four M8x16 socket head bolts.
The home system consists of four basic parts: remove the protective film from the plexiglass part. Assemble the L-
Shape, gasket and light switches and stack them as shown in the figure.
Use two M3x16 cylinder head bolts with two M3 gaskets and two M3 nuts.
The Bolt will go through the optical switch, the gasket, and then through the L-
Long slot in shape.
Place the M3 gasket on the back of the bolt and fix it loosely with the nut.
Because you still have to align the home switch with your fingers.
We will do so in the next steps.
Connect the main finger to the bridge using two M3x6 cylinder head bolts and two M3 gaskets.
Everything you need to do
Now assemble the axis motion.
We continue the Z-calibration. axis assembly.
Before we do the calibration, we should set up the connection to the computer and install some software and drivers.
To install the software, you need a PC operated by Windows.
We are sorry that we do not currently support Mac and/or Linux.
The software you need to use the printer consists of two parts: ArduinoGo to the Arduino website and download the Arduino IDE (
Integrated development environment)to your PC.
Please select the full installation of Arduino to make sure your PC is able to recognize the brain of the printer.
IDE is not used when programming.
Create workshop (CW)
The next step is to install the printing creation workshop for Steve Harnandez.
Steve wrote some great software and we are sure you will like to use it.
We strongly recommend starting printing with the stable and tested CW version provided in our Dropbox.
Send an email to the provided email address that comes with the kit, and we will provide you with the access code for the drop-down box file.
If you are already more experienced, you may want to try Steve\'s latest version with the latest features on his website.
After downloading the ZIP containing the program, you can extract the CW to any location of your choice and you will be ready. Double-
Click Create workshop.
Exe startup program.
The interface of CW is very convenient and direct, so you can click and get used to the interface at will.
We will not give a full introduction to CW in this manual, just need to pick the basics needed for calibration.
If you would like to know more about this project, we recommend reading its manual.
The user manual for CW will be installed in the same folder along with the creation workshop. exe.
Don\'t install any firmware on your brain.
We have installed the firmware for your printer model.
After installing Arduino and CW on your computer, you can connect.
After all the software is installed on the computer, we can connect the printer to the computer.
First, plug the power cord into the brain.
If this is your first time, depending on the country you live in, it might be a good idea to re-check if you have the power settings set up correctly.
In our experience, this magical smoke will only appear once.
Connect the Arduino\'s brain to your computer using a USB cable.
The first time you do this, Windows will install some software to handle the brain.
It may take a few minutes.
After the installation is complete, Windows will pop up a small pop-up at the bottomright corner (
Where the time is displayed)
Your Arduino is now available. Now start CW.
Since the CW will not automatically adjust the settings to your machine, you will need to make some first-time settings.
Now that the creation workshop is configured, you can connect to the printer.
At this stage, the projector and Z-
The shaft should run as you expect: the projector should send the image and the linear guide should move in the direction of the click.
The CW cannot recognize the resolution of the beamer: refresh, if it is still not 1920x1080, go to the desktop and set the screen resolution to see what resolution it finds.
If you run windows on your mac, go to the NVIDIA control panel and change the color depth.
Windows doesn\'t know how to handle so many pixels, so we need to turn it down a little bit.
Beamers resolution is not recognized by Windows.
Go to your desktop and right-click.
Turn on the screen resolution settings extended display.
Click OK a few times until everything is fully accepted and beamer resolution is recognized only in the last window.
If your Z-
It\'s fully assembled now.
The end plate is loosely attached to the main aluminum beam.
In this case, you should be able to gently shake these things with your hands, but they should not lose anything so that is in danger of collapse.
Keep in mind that in the upcoming calibration steps they make a little click.
This is normal (for now).
The reason we keep these loose is because they can squeeze the slide frame when they are not aligned correctly, which hinders the motor calibration.
To align the end plate, we need a calibrated motor.
The first thing to do is to make sure the home switch is out of the way.
You can even remove the main finger to make sure that your route is not hindered by the presence of the main finger. (Re)
Check the free and light movement of the spinner. You can skip this step if you choose the ball spindle.
First, check to see if all the pulleys are properly fixed and if there is no power in the brain.
You should be able to easily rotate the spindle with your thumb and index finger.
If not, adjust the front.
In anti-load
Therefore, the spindle runs lighter.
Calibrate the stepping motor drive you should not be able to rotate the spindle with your fingers again.
If you can rotate it and hear a click from the motor, this means that the power of the motor is set to be slight on the stepping drive.
Adjust the power output of the step driver by turning a small variable resistor.
Rotating the variable resistance on the step driver clockwise will increase the power of the motor.
Rotating the variable resistance counter-clockwise reduces the power of the motor.
If you are able to rotate the spindle, you should increase the output power so that the resistance is rotated clockwise until you can no longer rotate the spindle.
Leave settings like this for about a minute.
After about a minute, check the temperature of the cooling sheet on the stepping drive.
If these things are a bit hot, it doesn\'t matter, your power settings are too high if they get hot.
Use CW manual Z-
The axis controls movement in either direction.
Starting at 2mm, take a small distance.
It\'s a good cool check to see if you \'ve fixed the pulley and belt correctly and if you haven\'t had much friction due to the spindle nut.
Gradually increase the length of the trip until you are confident to increase the speed of the trip and repeat this test.
The maximum travel speed of the spindle with a length of 350mm is 300/min, and the maximum travel speed of the spindle with a length of 600mm is 900/min.
Repeat this test until you can travel comfortably for 100mm at maximum speed.
If your motor stops or clicks, then the power on the step drive will increase a little bit.
If it\'s really hard to walk and it runs loud, you should lower the power of the step driver.
At the same time, check the temperature of the cooling fin with your finger (
Be careful that it may get hot).
If the stepping driver is overheated, your motor will stop working and will not work properly.
You have now made sure your motor is working properly and your bridge wagon is running smoothly, but your end plate is still loose and can shake.
Calibration z-
This is the first calibration to ensure your trip is smooth and unobstructed.
Use the CW\'s manual control button to move to the lowest possible position.
The motor is connected to the lowest position on the spindle.
There is a small gap of about 5mm between the bridge and/or the carriage and the bottom plate.
Once in place, gently tighten all M6 screws on the bottom plate.
By tightening the screw, apply the pressure evenly to the bottom plate and preferably tighten it in Cross order. For example (
I assume you have z-
The shaft is on the back of it, on the table)
Upper left, lower right, upper right, lower left, and finally lower left.
Repeat this order until all the screws are fixed and tight.
Now travel all the way to the top using CW and stop about 5mm from the top.
Repeat the same fastening process now. (Re)
Calibrate the step driver to move the axis up and down several times at maximum speed, while checking the temperature of the step driver and resetting the resistor when needed during the process.
Since the motor is the weakest when traveling at the highest speed, it would be a good indicator if there is excessive friction on the spindle or need to adjust the motor power setting.
You just finished the Z-calibration. axis!
Put the brain and Z
Since we started assembling the frame, put the shaft aside.
The assembly steps of each machine are different.
If you choose the XL machine, you can proceed to the next step.
First lay two 450mm long 40x40mm profiles on a flat surface.
Lens plate, 4m6 T-
Nuts, 4 x M6 rings and 4 x M6x10 bolts. Insert two T-
Nuts in each profile and attach the mirror plate to the profile.
It is important that the front of the mirror plate is flush with the surface of the 450mm long profile.
Check if the mirror plate is in the right direction, stand in front of the machine, and the four holes connecting the mirror frame should be on the right rear side.
Insert two steel pins into two aluminum beams with holes.
These are 300mm long profiles, each with a 14mm hole.
You may need some persuasion tools (aka hammer)to get it in.
If you use a hammer to convince the steel pin in the 300mm long profile to enter the hole, use a wooden hammer to avoid damaging your aluminum profile.
Make sure the hole on the steel pin is T-with the beam-
Slots, steel pins have two recessed holes on each pin.
The head of the special M8 Bolt is suitable for this recession.
Ensure that the recessed part of the steel pin faces the long side of the beam.
Once in through the profile connector, you can go through T-
Slot on the beam
Twist each M8 into a double hole T-nut. Slide each T-
Make a nut of 450mm long aluminum profile with a beam.
Don\'t move these for the time being. Take 4x M6 T-
Nuts, 4 x M6 rings and 4 x M6x10 bolts.
Insert two nuts into each 450mm beam, place the Beamer plate, and fix the Beamer plate on two 450mm long profiles.
Make sure the back of the Beamer board is flush with the back of the profile.
Now checking the side of the entire floor platform board needs to be flush with the side of the 450mm profile as well as the front of the Mirror board and the back of the Beamer board, from other points of view your shell is not suitable for your floor platform.
Now tighten the two riser and 300mm upright riser until they shake freely.
You still have to align these so don\'t tighten them too much.
2x90 degree angle connector (corners)
, 4 x M8 cheese head bolt, 4 x M8 T-
Nut and 370mm long aluminum profile.
Assemble the corner, bolt the M8 cheese head through each slot of the corner and at M8 T-nut.
Just a few laps.
Now slide two corners on the 370mm-long outline.
Insert this component into two riser.
Add two corners and two 320mm profiles pointing to the front of the machine.
The top of these two beams will have a basin plate of 4mm. Use 4x M6 T-
Nuts, 4 x M6 rings, 4 x M6x16 bolts (
These may be the M6x14 in some kits)
Install the basin plate on two horizontal arms.
Upgrade: upgrade the printer by covering the aluminum profile with matte black foil and all aluminum surfaces.
The reduction in scattered light improves the quality of your print.
High-speed resins are sometimes very sensitive, and they solidify even with diffuse reflective light, and may actually require you to blacken each aluminum wood surface under the basin.
First lay two 450mm long 40x40mm profiles on a flat surface.
Lens plate, 4m6 T-
Nuts, 4 x M6 rings and 4 x M6x10 bolts. Insert two T-
Nuts in each profile and attach the mirror plate to the profile.
It is important that the front of the mirror plate is flush with the surface of the 450mm long profile.
Check if the mirror plate is in the right direction, stand in front of the machine, and the four holes connecting the mirror frame should be on the right rear side.
Insert two steel pins into two aluminum beams with holes.
These are 300mm long profiles, each with a 14mm hole.
You may need some persuasion tools (aka hammer)to get it in.
If you use a hammer to convince the steel pin to enter the hole of the 300mm long profile, use a wooden or plastic hammer to avoid damaging your aluminum profile.
Make sure the hole on the steel pin is T-with the beam-
Slots, steel pins have two recessed holes on each pin.
The head of the special M8 Bolt is suitable for this recession.
Ensure that the recessed part of the steel pin faces the long side of the beam.
Once in through the profile connector, you can go through T-
Slot on the beam
Twist each M8 into a double hole T-nut. Slide each T-
Make a nut of 450mm long aluminum profile with a beam.
Don\'t move these for the time being. Take 4x M6 T-
Nuts, 4 x M6 rings and 4 x M6x10 bolts.
Insert two nuts into each 450mm beam, place the Beamer plate, and fix the Beamer plate on two 450mm-long profiles.
Make sure the back of the Beamer board is flush with the back of the profile.
Now checking the side of the entire floor platform board needs to be flush with the side of the 450mm profile and the front of the Mirror board and the back of the Beamer board, otherwise your shell will not be able to be installed on the floor platform.
Now tighten the two riser and 300mm upright riser until they shake freely.
You still have to align these so don\'t tighten them too much.
4x90 degree angle connector (corners)
, Cheese head bolt, T M8 T-
Nuts and 80x40 aluminum profiles 370mm long.
Assemble the corner, bolt the M8 cheese head through each slot of the corner and at M8 T-nut.
Just a few laps.
Now slide two corners on the 370mm-long outline.
Insert this component into two riser.
Add two corners and two 320mm profiles pointing to the front of the machine.
The top of these two beams will have a basin plate of 4mm. Use 4x M6 T-
Nuts, 4 x M6 rings, 4 x M6x16 bolts (
These may be the M6x14 in some kits)
Install the basin plate on two horizontal arms.
Upgrade: upgrade the printer by covering the aluminum profile with matte black foil and all aluminum surfaces.
The reduction in scattered light improves the quality of your print.
High-speed resins are sometimes very sensitive, and they solidify even with diffuse reflective light, and may actually require you to blacken each aluminum wood surface under the basin.
Remove two side plates from the brain.
You will see two mounting holes at the bottom of the brain frame. Use two T-
The nut mounts the brain to the frame on the horizontal beam.
It should be positioned to the far left, facing the vertical riser.
Put the side plates of the brain back in place and keep them together using rubber bands.
Before installing Z-
The shaft suggests that the basin is still in its packaging.
It will still be there if you follow these instructions, but it is not shown in the photo.
To calibrate the Z-
Axis and place it horizontally on the table.
High spec: add month x 90 degree angle to two bottom, Z-
Axis using 4 x M6 T-
Nuts, rings and bolts x14 bolts. Take 2 M6 T-
Nuts, put them in the horizontal beam of the frame and put them in Z-axis assembly.
Grab Z now-
Axis assembly and T-
Nut on the beam.
Install Z-with 2 M6 rings and M6x14 bolts
Axis of the frame.
XL height: add 4x90 degree angle connector to Z-
Shaft using M6 M6 T-
Nuts, rings and bolts x14 bolts. Take 4 M6 T-
Nuts, put them in the horizontal beam of the frame and put them in Z-axis assembly.
Grab Z now-
Axis assembly and T-
Nut on the beam.
Install Z-with 4 M6 rings and M6x14 bolts-
Axis of the frame.
Z-alignmentAxisAlign Z
The shaft slides along the horizontal beam to the center of the rectangular hole in the basin plate.
A ruler or clamp will help here.
If everything is ready, you can tighten all the bolts. Now the Z-
The shaft is in a position where the basin can be installed on the Basin board.
The basin is hinged with the plate to make it tilt.
Four pivot blocks are provided in the kit.
A slightly larger block (30x14x10mm)
Enter the basin plate using 4 M4x18 cylinder head bolts.
Smaller blocks (30x10x10mm)
Open the basin itself with 4 M4x14 cylinder head bolts.
Use M4x18 cylinder head bolts to pass through the larger blocks on the basin plate and enter the smaller blocks on each side of the basin plate.
Do not over tighten these bolts as this will prevent the basin from tilting.
The basin should only be tilted back from the inclined position by gravity, so make sure it works properly.
Install the two M4x18 DIN933 screws on the first two threaded holes of the basin plate.
This is the mechanical limit of basin inclination.
These devices are set up so that the basin can measure about 2mm of the inclination at the front of the basin.
With the basin, we should now install the projector on the board of the projector.
Disassemble the Acer H6510BD dlp fhd and remove all packaging materials including all protective foil.
Remove the bolts at the bottom of the projector.
Use this bolt to install the projector onto the projector\'s board using slot holes.
Do not tighten the bolts completely before checking the level of the projector to the plate.
Tighten the bolts once the projector is horizontal.
You need to release it a few more times and change the position of the projector as it is a very important setting.
Also connect the supplied power cord and VGA cable to the projector.
To improve the quality of the projector image, you may need to consider purchasing an HDMI cable.
In Windows, you should set the projector as the second monitor for the extended desktop configuration.
Make sure to set it to 1920x1200 pixel resolution in Windows installer and create workshop.
On Windows 8, you can get the display options using the Windows P shortcut.
On Windows 7, you go to the desktop (Windows + D)
, Right-click and click on the screen resolution.
We know there are some issues with Windows when setting the projector to a second monitor.
Unfortunately, this is mostly Windows related, and there are many different problems with the configuration of each computer, so there is no single solution to these problems.
Things that may help: If you still have problems with the connection and setup of the projector, feel free to ask and share the solutions that work for you!
Open all the parts of the build platform, starting with the build platform itself.
It\'s really important to clean the surface of the platform.
It should be free of grease, oil, dirt and other debris to ensure that the first layer of the print will be connected to the platform.
Your build platform is packed separately and should be touched with your hands or in contact with anything that is not clean and grease free.
You can use 50-
50 if you get the surface dirty, the mixture of water and Cillit Bang will clean the surface again.
Rub with a hand wearing gloves or with a new clean brush.
Scrub the surface several times and rinse the platform clean.
You should never see any greasy place again.
Continue to install the Cup ring (with 9 holes)
To the platform.
Use four M4x10 cylinder head bolts.
As these bolts are installed on the aluminum line, please do not over tighten these bolts.
Now you can insert the ball joint into the installed Cup ring and add the second 5-
Aluminum clip ring on top.
Keep the parts together using a set of four M4 rings and M4x12 DIN933 bolts.
The bolts have not been fully tightened yet.
Insert the M6x10 flat head screw into the bracket for a few laps and place it on the top of the ball joint.
Now give the flat head screws some extra turns to keep the parts together but still move freely.
Insert the M8x15 star knob into the bracket to complete the build platform component.
Make sure all parts move freely.
The platform should be able to run in all directions and the joints and brackets should slide.
When the parts are fully tightened in the next assembly phase, you may seriously damage the machine.
Install the mirror bracket on the mirror panel of the frame using two M6x10 cylinder head bolts and two M6 rings.
Put a piece of paper in the basin so you can see the output of the projector.
Please use the mirror first before reading the instructions below, but not.
Important: Be very, very careful in the mirror.
This is a delicate and precise part that is essential for your printer to get the awesome results we promised.
Wear gloves when handling mirrors.
Avoid contact with the surface of the mirror, only contact the mirror on the side.
Even with gloves, touch only one mirror.
The mirror coating is very fragile, rubbing this metal coating removes the coating from the glass, even if the soft tissue may damage the mirror and cannot be repaired.
Important: Don\'t wipe the mirror!
Chances are you won\'t improve anything by cleaning it up.
You only scratch the surface.
Open the box of the mirror and remove the first wooden spacer.
Now, gently touch the three mirrors with your fingers and turn the box over.
The mirror will now fall off and the Edge is firmly on your finger.
Remove the second wooden gasket and from the double-sided tape.
Other mirrors are either packed in special paper or in special cover foil, packed in bubbles.
The same principle applies, with care to open the package and not touch the front surface of the mirror.
Align the mirror to the Mirror board while hovering the mirror over the mirror board.
Look at the basin on the paper, look at the output of the projector, and put the mirror on the Mirror board when you feel that the alignment is very good.
You need to re-focus the projector at this stage.
Use the silver ring of the projector.
The most important thing is to make sure that the bottom of the image drops slightly (about 3mm)
Above the bottom edge of the mirror.
Once you do this, you can put the mirror in that position on the mirror holder.
Later, you can re-align the image on the basin by moving the mirror bracket or
Aim at the projector.
One suggestion is to do this. by-
Step and check the output on the paper.
You may be confused during this process because you have to deal with some quiet variables (
Projector zoom, projector focus, mirror position, Mirror board position, projector position and alignment of all these parts).
The move is slow and stable.
For this step, you need to: Set the printer X, Y resolution.
It\'s time to consider your printing needs.
You should decide whether to print most of the tiny objects or to print something very large using the maximum print area of the printer.
If you are interested in making jewelry or small scale models, we would recommend x, y resolutions of 50 microns or less.
If you would like to print larger models, such as parts for RC planes, vases, and toys, we recommend setting the resolution of x, y to about 80 microns.
If you\'re just going to print the big size, you can set the x, y resolution of up to 100 microns.
The bigger your resolution (100microns)
The bigger your printing area will be.
You can also consider that due to the large print area, it takes a long time to solidify the layer, resulting in a long printing time.
I would like to make a warning here: these are still very important, despite our efforts to reduce relief.
Basically, anything you print is like a suction cup that releases the surface of the layer.
If your object is larger, the force to pull it from the building window of the basin will also be greater.
The size of this force also depends on the shape of the object, the maximum force is generated by a hollow circle, which is basically why the suction cup you use to connect TomTom to the window is also round.
A lot of release can cause a splash of low viscosity resin!
Please start small print so you can have the right feel for your machine.
X, y resolution is determined by the distance between the lens and the build window.
The closer your build window is to the lens, the smaller the image, so the higher the resolution.
This means that, like other 3D printing technologies, the maximum x, y dimensions are not determined by the size of the build platform.
It is determined by the size of the projected image. The projector (Beamer)
Project an image consisting of pixels.
This is a fixed number of pixels, 1920 in the x direction and 1200 in the y direction.
Check how the windows and computer hardware recognize Beamer.
On some computers this only recognizes the projector, 1920x1080 p in most cases you should get 1920x1200 to make your maximum building area 192x120mm in 100 microns, how did you think of your determination?
Simple: this is the size of the image divided by the number of pixels.
Therefore, if an image of 192mm is projected in the x direction and 108mm is projected in the y direction, the pixel size is 100 microns or 0. 1mm x,y.
As 192mm/1920pix = 0. 1mm (100microns)
Resolution connecting projector, window and verification.
Now think about your ideal resolution and crop out a white copy paper rectangle in the right size.
For example, I want to print the first example of 80 microns (
Good surface finish for larger functional parts)
, My computer recognizes Beamer as 1920x1200 (
I have a PC recently).
I should cut the rectangle of 153. 6mm (x)
96mm wide (y). 1920pix (x)* 0. 08mm= 153. 6mm (x)1200pix (y)* 0. 08mm= 96. 0mm (y)
For the second example, I want to print 50 microns because I like jewelry or fine mechanical parts.
My computer recognizes that Beamer has 1920x1200 pix (x,y)
I will have to cut out a rectangle about 96x60mm. 1920pix (x)* 0. 05mm = 96. 0mm (x)1200pix (y)* 0. 05mm = 60. 0mm (y)You do not.
You have to cut out this piece of paper with an accuracy of 0.
01mm, this will not affect your final accuracy even if you will be given a 5mm discount.
In order to actually calibrate the printer, we will do a calibration print, which is just a rough setting for you globally.
Wear gloves to prevent the transfer of body grease to the Basin and other sensitive parts.
Wear sunglasses to prevent staring directly into your eyes.
Before you start moving the build platform up and out, make sure that its own build platform can rotate freely on the ball joints and slide up and down freely on the stand.
Make sure the printer is placed on a horizontal plane.
Guidelines for placing paper (
The rectangle you just cut out)
In your basin, this is also the reason why we use regular paper because the paper is relatively soft and the chances of scratching the coating are less.
However, the paper is more difficult than your Teflon coating, so don\'t rub the paper on the coating with any force.
Open the mixer and focus the mixer on a piece of paper in the basin.
If your image is larger than your paper, loosen the two arms that hold your Basin platform in place and bring your Basin platform a little closer to Beamer.
If your projected print area is too small, lift the Beamer platform from the projector.
Re-focus Beamer on the paper guide and verify the image size.
Also, in this step, it is not necessary to match the image size perfectly with the paper guide 100%.
Align the printerLevel of the basin platform using your spiritual level.
Depending on your app, you may want to set up the machine with a more precise mental level.
The easiest way to level your basin is to hold one arm in a tight place and release the other.
Now move loose arms up or down to keep your basin level.
If you want to be very special about your leveling, you can place the gasket between the front or back of the basin plate and the arm to level it in the y direction.
Once you are satisfied with the setup of the basin mountain platform, it is time to set the z-axis.
Slowly turn the build platform off until the minimum position on z-is about 5mm awayaxis.
Use your paper guide as the interval between the build window and the build platform.
Make sure your z while doing this
The axis is positioned correctly, so the platform is neatly lowered into the basin.
You can move z carefully.
The axis to the left or right on the beam. If your z-
Before the building platform is in contact with the basin, the shaft reaches its lower limit and you should move the horizontal beam down.
Make sure your Horizontal installation is low enough so that your build platform can slide up about 5mm from the lowest position.
Once your build platform is properly positioned in the basin, you can tighten the connection z-
Axis of horizontal beam.
Now we can get z-axis.
From z-adjustment
Axis around the y axis (
Tilt left and right).
Relax on one side of the horizontal beam.
One side should be loose enough to move freely and the other side should make sure everything is in place.
Move the loose side up or down to make z-
Axis around Y axisaxis.
Once you are satisfied with your leveling, tighten the loose end enough so that the beam cannot move up and down, but is loose enough to be on the connecting corner and vertical riser.
Both screws that connect the horizontal beam to the vertical riser do so.
Now z-
Axis around xaxis (
Tilt back).
Once you are satisfied with your leveling, please tighten all the screws on the frame and re-check your leveling.
Important: Make sure your build platform is loose, you can slide up and down freely on the stand, or you can rotate freely on the ball joint.
If the platform cannot move freely, you can seriously damage your machine.
Put the paper in a basin (
If it\'s not inside).
This paper is usually 0mm thick and should be a good starting point for the first layer thickness.
Using CW\'s manual control moves the build platform down until it touches the paper in the basin.
Move the platform down 5mm once you have contacted.
This will cause the ball Festival to slide further in the bracket.
Now, place the home switch assembly in the optical sensor, leaving the bottom of the home finger in the optical sensor.
This should turn off the LED on the home switch.
Now move the home switch down a bit until the led is on but dim.
Fix the home switch to Z-
Shaft, check if the LED is still dark and if the main finger is floating freely in the switch.
There should be no contact between the home finger and the home switch.
Press the \"Home Z\" button in the creation workshop to reset the main location of the printer.
It\'s always a bit scary.
If you are not too confident, you can move the platform up and remove the build platform or basin before returning to the nest for the first time.
Now your build platform is in the basin and Z-
We can upgrade the build platform.
Grab the ball joint with two fingers, press down, and tighten the flat head screw in the bracket at the same time.
This requires a slight pressure and too much pressure can damage your basin.
Now gently tighten the bolt on the clip and clamp the ball knot.
The trick here is to do it gently and evenly.
Turn the four bolts alternately every quarter and keep the clamping ring parallel to the Cup.
Move the platform up about 100mm and make sure it can no longer move by applying normal manpower.
Grab the platform on both sides and try to rotate it.
If it moves, you should repeat the process from that step in order to set up the platform correctly and proceed to the next step. Congrats!
All the hard bits are done at this stage.
All you need to do now is assemble the wooden case.
These steps do take time but are not too difficult.
Please pay attention to the correct direction of all wooden parts and take a closer look at the 3D image.
Most parts are marked so you can easily see the part and its direction.
Use a wood glue or hot glue gun (
Whatever you like
Just like you put together your brain.
We will start with the projector air bridge.
This part has the function of guiding the hot air produced by Beamer out of the shell.
Air inlet fan card case air inlet fan case is on the back and inside of the chassis fan to prevent sunlight from entering through the opening of the fan.
Screw the loose fan to the inside of the chassis with two banana connectors.
Make sure the fan blows air into the box.
Use 4 M3x35, 8 M3 rings and 4 M3 nuts.
Stick the lid to the fan to make sure the airflow is facing the top of the chassis.
Most of the light sources come from above, which is why the airflow is up because it is difficult for the light to bend the corners.
You can improve this trap system by blackening the interior matte.
The shell below is just a wooden part ring that marks the LC with two unmarked wooden strips.
This strip is used for guiding the upper casing.
There are six holes at the bottom of the lower casing for assembly to the frame.
The upper casing will be located just at the top of the lower casing.
There is a wood strip at the front of the lower sleeve and a wood strip at the back of the lower sleeve.
These should be glued to the midway mark on the inside of the sleeve.
Keep in mind that all part numbers should be placed inside the casing when assembling the lower casing.
The upper case is different according to the standard/XL machine.
The parts on XL machines are obviously larger, but they do have the same marks/numbers.
Use triangular wooden parts with no windows at the back of the upper sleeve.
Those with windows should be in front, no matter how common they are, so you can have a little creative freedom here if you want.
The left and right doors are slightly different, and the components of the doors are slightly different! Pleas check-
Check the parts carefully before gluing because it is difficult to see the difference.
Use the triangular part on the window of the door.
If you are skipping the beautification of your enclosure, please proceed to the next section to install the Windows.
All the wooden parts are stuck together and you may want to paint it.
There is no real need to do it, but feel free to give it any color you like!
We recommend a matte, dark color inside the shell to reduce the reflection of the beam image.
Use your paint as an upgrade!
For better printing, Please paint the entire interior of the case in matte black.
In this case, less scattered light means higher print quality.
Install windows please remove the protection foil before installing windows.
The easiest to install is a triangular window with a cut.
The triangular windows are slightly larger than the triangular cuts, which simply stick to the inside of the triangle, where you can use some silicone sealant or Hot Melt Adhesive.
As far as our current tests are concerned, melt glue can hold them better than silicone.
Large windows should fit the frame exactly.
The frame is 6mm thick, but the window is only 3mm if you place the frame face (outside)
Insert the window down on a flat surface and the window will be flush with the window frame.
Now, apply a glue on the inner edge of the window frame to fix the window in place.
In the process of this small step, it is convenient to hang the door on the door and have some extra hands present, ask a friend or spouse to Mark, drill and screw in you
Place the door on the shell, take a ruler and pen and make a small mark on each door.
10 cm from the top of the door and 15 cm from the bottom.
Make sure your marks are on the side of the door and they meet the shell.
Take a small hinge and a pen and place the hinge on the mark.
Make sure that the flat side of the hinge is relative to the shell, and the connecting part of the hinge is centered on the encounter edge of the upper shell and door.
Mark the center of each hole on the Inge on the sleeve with your pen.
Take a small drill with a diameter of less than 2mm (1. 5mm can also)
Drill a small hole about 3mm deep on each mark.
Repeat this step for all four hinges, two hinges for each door.
Once all the holes are drilled on the hinge, 4 small wooden screws are used for each hinge.
Insert three M6 T-
Frame the nuts on both sides of the lowest beam and align them with the distance of the middle hole in the lower sleeve.
Remove the casing and take over the Z-
Bottom on the shaft and aluminum frame.
It should be flush with T-aluminum beams
Nut with holes on the lower sleeve.
Install the lower sleeve onto the frame using 6 M6 rings and M6x16 cylinder head bolts.
Take the upper casing and take over the Z-
Shaft and casing.
It\'s not installed on the lower sleeve, just sitting there.
The two belts on the lower casing should guide the upper casing during processing.
Connect the fan to the brain.
Place the air bridge next to the projector and place the hole on the side of the lower sleeve.
It should just sit there and don\'t need glue, but if you are going to move the printer a lot, you can fix it on the Mirror board with some hot melt adhesive or double sided taps.
Finally assembled. Good job!
You can start using a 3D printer now.
Before printing, we felt we should remind you of something very critical: We also wanted to share our advice on your first print: Start looking at interesting things now.
First of all, you should wash the washbasin.
The paper you use to calibrate should be taken out and the surface of the Basin should be cleaned.
Clean the inner surface of the basin very gently using ethanol/acetone and a kitchen paper.
You should use gloves during this process as your nails may damage the coating on the surface of the basin.
Before removing the resin, you should start with creating the workshop and make the pre-
Print general. Pre-
Print route opens the model to print in the create workshop.
Move, rotate, and scale it until you\'re happy with the direction.
In this regard, you may need to go back to the design software for more advanced options.
Netfabb Basic and/or Meshlab can be used for free to help fix the model or re-divide the STL file (s).
Add support to the model to print the highlight.
We think the most effective workflow is to have CW create support automatically and then move them manually.
For help, see the user manual for CW.
Now, open the slice option for CW and put in the first resin setting, you can find examples of different types of resin and build areas in the drop-down box folder.
Click the slice button to start the slice calculation.
This can take a while for a complex model, but for small objects it will be done soon.
Once you\'re done, you can preview the slices in the create workshop.
We recommend checking the slices before starting the print job.
Now, the workshop is ready to be created.
Make sure the image is not displayed on the projector.
If there is, please turn it off by the \"show Blank\" option of \"create workshop\" in the menu under \"machine control.
Print and take your resin out of the package.
Interestingly, this resin should get you started.
There is a liter in the package, so it will be enough in the next few weeks.
Make sure the resin packaging is firmly closed and mix the resin around.
3 minutes, just like you draw in a jar.
This will mix the color pigment evenly through the resin.
Put the resin on the table for another 5 minutes.
This should be enough to prevent bubbles in the resin (
You really don\'t want bubbles in the resin in the basin! )
Open the bottle and pour the resin into the basin.
If this is your first time, you can consider taking the basin out and having more control over it.
There should be at least 4mm resin in the basin. Home the z-
Axis by selecting the main Z button in the machine control menu.
Again, it will be a terrible moment because you really can\'t see if everything is OK or not.
The build platform will go into the resin and disappear in the resin.
Next, we will start printing in the creation workshop, but before that, please read the following instructions: click the Play button in CW to let the magic happen.
Creating a workshop will start the print job and have full control over the printer.
The print program should be: you can see the progress of your print job in the creation workshop.
You will not be able to see any results from the first layer.
Sit down and try to relax and wait until the platform of your object reaches above the height of the resin in your Basin to see the result.
Now you should wait until the print is finished before proceeding to the next step.
Material/tool: ethanol/acetone (IPA)
Razor knife paper towel GlovesSafety glasses cut matSmall container spray bottle. When the printer is finished, your item hangs there upside down.
It\'s time to get it out.
Preparation: place a cutting pad or a solid piece of cardboard near the printer as your working surface.
Get some kitchen paper ready to clean up the spill.
Fill a small glass or polypropylene container half way with ethanol/IPA.
Fill the spray bottle with ethanol/IPA and place it next to the cutting pad.
Remove the print from the printer: open the door of the chassis and release the star knob.
Take out the whole building platform, but be sure to pour too much uncured resin into the basin.
Alternatively, you can use a second polypropylene container or some kitchen paper to capture any drops of water.
Place the building platform on several kitchen sheets on the cutting pad.
Build the platform with some tissue cleaning, print and resin drops on the machine.
Pick up the blade and peel the printed object from the platform.
This can be difficult, so take a moment and be careful not to damage the printed object.
Clean the building platform and print objects with some kitchen paper.
Make sure you still don\'t have a solid part of the resin on your build platform.
Now you can use the build platform again immediately for the next print.
If you have finished printing, you should clean your building platform with some kitchen paper and ethanol/IPA.
Immerse the print in the container with ethanol/IPA, clean the print, it is better to stir the print in the solvent to dissolve any excess resin.
You can reuse your ethanol container many times and don\'t need to throw it away after each print.
Next time rinse your model with some ethanol/IPA in the spray bottle.
Once you are satisfied, keep the model dry.
When the model is dry, you can do finishing and curing with a UV curing box or place the model in direct sunlight.
Tools/materials: FunnelPaper towelgloafety glass spray bottle with ethanol/IPASmall container if you want to stop printing, you should remove the resin from the basin.
Depending on the resin, it should not be there for more than 8 hours.
You may struggle a bit a few times before, but after some practice it will be a very easy process