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Making Gummies From Your Video Game Mods on the Cheap
by：Tuowei
2019-09-11
So, you just designed a sweet water element for Skyrim and a sweet water element for half a zombie Mook
Live 2, the mutant rabbit of radiation 3, or any other game will bring a lot of Google clicks to this game.
What better way to celebrate than eating some delicious chewing gum?
What more gum to eat than your own zombie ninja robot kitten assassin?
The problem is, your budget is limited and you can\'t afford the latest gummy-tech. Not a problem!
In this Instructable, we will go through the steps of preparing the model and transfer it to manufacturing the mold blank, forming the mold and making the gum.
How to enjoy them, you are your own.
As a fan of the scroll, I want to start with a good starting Monster, the mouse.
It\'s not fair to rip off their model now, so I\'m spinning on it as an interesting cartoon mouse.
Once you have your idea, you will need the following tools (or equivalents)(
View last picture):-
In all directions, a piece of wood is at least a little larger than your model.
I prefer balsa wood because it is cheap and easy to carve. -
Use a laser printer or copier.
At a critical moment, you can go to the local library to find a copier. -An iron (
The kind you use to iron clothes)-Tape (
Shielding, plumbing, Scotch whisky, etc. . . )-
Wood cutting tools.
I used the Dremel 565 multi-function cutting kit on my off-
The brand \"Dremel style\" rotary tool.
Candidates include :-A router (
Or router attachment for your tool)-
Milling Machine-
Router, end mill or rotary cutter cutting bit in drill press-Non-
Toxic acrylic paint
Several bowls and spoonsA paper plate-
Wire mixer or forkCorn starch-A microwave-
Candy of your favorite taste (any shape)-
Light oil (
Olives, vegetables, Canadian food, etc. . . )-
Next, we will slice the model.
Slices create a series of profiles from the part along a parallel plane.
This makes it possible to map things like terrain isograms.
We will use the outline to guide our cutting of the blanks.
Slice technology is widely used in rapid prototyping technology.
STL files are actually developed for use in rapid prototyping.
Slicing programs are quite common, including some free software or open source applications.
Free software is our friend because we work here very cheap.
In particular, we will use two programs :-MeshLab (
Will be used to process grid files.
It is crucial here that you do not use the latest version now due to a problem with the slicing function.
You need to use version 1. 2.
3, can be found here :-Inkscape (
Will be used to process the generated profile file.
These are very useful programs.
These give up the choices we want at least the hassle and cost.
It is difficult for us to touch the surface of their abilities.
When you\'re done here, I encourage you to become more familiar with these great systems.
We\'re going to cast the part of the gum.
Casting is the process of pouring hot liquid into the cavity and cooling it to the solid.
Designing a good casting requires some thought on your design.
The draft angle and base are important features of the part.
Draft angle is the bracket where your part is angled to a vertical wall (see the figure).
You are weakened when you have a negative draft.
There are techniques that can be used to cast parts with cuts, but these are for advanced classes.
The base material is not good because they will prevent you from taking the blanks out of the mold completely.
In fact, even vertical walls will hang on your mold and cause problems.
You need a minimum draft angle of 5 degrees, but more is better.
The draft angle applies to each surface of the part.
Note that in the picture, there is also a draft angle in the ear of the mouse.
Many CAD systems have tools for measuring draft angles that you may find useful for checking parts.
Another reason your part does not need to be weakened is that you will carve this part from above.
You won\'t be able to cut the weakening layer without a lot of extra work (
This will be a waste as it will mess up your mold).
For the sake of simplicity, our mold will be an open mold with only half of it.
Your part must have a flat surface as the base.
This will be the top of your cavity where you will Pour the melted glue.
The base surface will be the largest surface of the part.
In general, this will be the back or bottom of a part of you.
With these considerations, you need to modify your original model.
Your model in the game won\'t
There is no doubt that this is a comprehensive number with a lot of weakening.
You need to make a copy of the model and add or modify the features to eliminate the cut and create a good base surface.
The source of the model really depends on you.
Ideally, the best model is made by yourself.
Our ultimate goal is to make the required \"Grid files \".
While most CAD systems use files with arbitrary geometry: smooth surfaces, curves, plates, etc. . .
This gives us a lot of features because we can create any shape.
However, this is excessive for your regular video game.
To improve the processing, the shape is split into a set of polygons called grids.
3D CAD is my preferred tool for creating a new model.
Everyone has their own favorites and choosing a CAD package is beyond the scope of this manual.
Be sure to check out Autodesk 123D if you don\'t.
It is necessary to convert a file to a grid.
Usually using the save as command, all decent CAD packages can be saved to a grid file.
For our purpose. STL or a .
The OBJ file format is a fairly standard grid.
Autodesk 123D has a handy gallery if you need inspiration.
If you have already made your mod, you may have to convert your game files to a different format.
If you are making documents for oblivion, radiation 3 and several others, the information is in. NIF format.
Fortunately, this useful Wiki has information about a great tool called NifTools that allows you to view the data in your NIF file and export it as an OBJ file
For other games, you have to consult your documentation.
Not all grids are equal!
To get a better look, the game designer has to strike a balance between low polygon count and high polygon count.
When doing the model, the more you do the better.
The number of high polygons will result in a smoother part.
Fortunately, with the improvement of the game system, the model in the game gets a higher number of polygons.
For a comparison of polygon counts, see the figure.
If your model is more lumpy than you like, you have to load it into the editor for adjustments.
We\'re going to use a software called MeshLab to work with the mesh, which has tools to smooth the mesh if needed.
There are many other sources for Mesh files.
A quick search on Google will find a gallery of many mesh files.
If you have access to a 3D scanner, then you can use real objects as the basis for the model.
I have to insert a plug here for 3D scanning studies at my alma mater IIT.
If you really work hard, you can search the Grid files of your favorite games for inspiration.
First, start MeshLab.
It will ask you to load your grid files.
It may ask you to perform some processing options.
We will use Meshlab to convert the grid file to a series of profiles as an SVG format file.
I am trying to include a screenshot of each step in the process.
The slice tool is located in a parallel plane of the menu filter> mass measurement and calculation> cross section.
You need to do a little math here.
You need to decide how high your parts are, how thick the slices are, and how many layers of the parts are sliced.
This is a balance.
If you use more layers, you will have a smoother part, but you will have more layers to cut and it will be difficult to tell when cutting.
You must also decide the total length of the part, which will be used later.
I decided to do a 0 for this part.
75 \"the part of the 11-layer high gives the thickness of the 0 layer.
075 \", this seems reasonable.
I decided to specify 22 layers for the slice and discard each.
This avoids the first or last floor that may be fashionable.
In the dialog box, first select the default parameter and then enter the custom parameter :-
Unit: it doesn\'t matter because we will cover these units later so use it as CM-
Dimension on the longer axis: We will overwrite it later too, so I set it to 1-
Output file: it doesn\'t seem to matter.
The software always seems to use the same file name as the source file to change the extension. SVG. -
Custom axis: This collection defines the slice direction.
For my part, the \"Y\" axis is the vertical axis of my part, so I set it to 1 and the rest to 0. -
Flat reference: Set this to bounding box min.
It is important to set the point where the first slice is located. -
Medium thickness: this is a cosmetic value that will control the thickness that the slice shows on the preview screen.
Has no effect on the output file. I set it to .
02 for visual purposes. -
Number of aircraft: this is quite selfevident.
As we decided before, I used 22 pieces.
The rest of the options remain in default.
Click Apply and close \".
You can preview the results shown in the last screenshot.
You can close MeshLab now.
MeshLab has now generated profiles in SVG files, but the profiles are not necessarily scaled or assembled into a single profile shape.
We need to use Inkscape for this.
You can choose to open the generated SVG file directly or start Inkscape and import the SVG file into a new document.
In both cases, you need to set the document for the paper size.
Select document properties in the File menu \".
Set the default unit to the unit you like and I prefer inches.
If you do not open the SVG file directly, select import in the File menu to import the SVG file.
You may notice that the profile file is set in an array.
The first profile is broken at times, so we can use the second one in this case.
If all profiles are broken, check the slice settings in the previous step and try again.
Also, the outline is not scaled. Pressing Ctrl-
A to select all, drag the first good outline to the top left corner of the document so that you can measure it using the ruler.
For the mouse, I want to zoom it so that the total length is 2. 5 inches long.
To get a better measurement, I put the tail on the left edge of the page and hover the cursor over the nose of the mouse.
In the lower right corner, window Inkscape displays the cursor position, which is more accurate than the ruler measurement.
In this example, the current length is 0. 17 inches.
Now, take out your calculator again and calculate the scale factor you need.
The scaling factor is the desired length divided by the current length multiplied by 100%.
SF = DL/CL * 100% for Out parts this is: 2. 5/0.
17 * 100% = 1470% select transform in the objects menu to pull up the Transform dialog box.
Select the zoom tab and set the width and height values to the zoom factor and press apply \".
Select a set of outlines and select ungroup from the Edit menu \".
Since we set MeshLab to double the number of slices we need to make, select and remove all the other profiles.
Now is the time to merge the remaining contours into a single terrain mapping.
Box for each profile as a reference.
You will want to enable capture by enabling the enable capture button in the right toolbar (
See Figure 12).
You can also turn on the snap border box corner, the snap node or the handle, and the snap to the tip node selector.
In this way, the corners of the box will align with each other.
Keep in mind that the box and outline are separate objects.
You need to hold down the Shift key to select both (
This is different from the normal Windows MS operation;
There are different functions to select Ctrl.
When all profiles are assembled, delete the bounding box.
The line thickness of the profile may need to be adjusted. Use Ctrl-
A select all objects.
In the objects menu, select fill and stroke to pull up the line Properties dialog box.
In the stroke style tab, adjust the width value.
This will be a balance in which thin lines will be more difficult to see separate lines, but thick lines will overlap.
Your image will be flipped during transmission, so if the direction is important (e. g. text)
You then need to apply the vertical flip or horizontal flip command using the objects menu.
You are now set to switch from virtual to physical.
Save your work and print a copy of the profile file.
For this step, your transfer design must be printed with a laser printer or photocopier.
If you have an inkjet or other printer, you need to copy your pattern on the copier (
If you use a printer/copier, it must use a laser printer).
In a pinch, you can use a local copy shop or library.
But your transmission mode can be managed.
The reason for this requirement is that copiers and laser printers use heat to fix powder toner on paper.
We will fix some toner on the block using the same properties.
Put your iron under the heat.
Use tape to fix the transfer pattern on the block to the block on the side of the ink.
It would be helpful to tape the paper in such a way that you can raise a corner to check if the transfer is done.
Use a hot iron and carefully iron the paper onto the block.
Be sure to iron the entire surface for a complete transfer.
More ironing hurt.
Lift a corner carefully to check if the transfer is complete and replace and re-iron if needed.
The cutting kit attachment has a relatively small ring and I need to create a cutting fixture depending on the size of my block.
I cut a hole in a piece of 1/2 plywood and put it on two pieces of wood slightly higher than my block.
This allows me to keep my cutting depth well.
The rotating tool remains stationary and I move the block along the table.
I also marked the side of my block as a guide to depth.
You may remember the layer thickness and layers you previously calculated.
The spacing of the mark is the same as my layer thickness (0. 075 in. )
And the same number of marks as the number of layers (11)in my part.
Now is a good time to wear safety glasses.
Use these tools carefully.
For the first cut, you set the depth of the cut bit to the lowest layer.
You will start by cutting the outermost profile.
Be sure to be careful when cutting, your position can grab the part in an awkward time and dig the part in.
Practice and patience are required to cut parts accurately.
Once you have the complete outer profile, carve out the area around the part and make a level around the part.
Now set the depth to the next lighter level.
Come in carefully and carve out the second outline.
Repeat this until all the outlines are carved out.
Here are a few important tips :-
Be patient with these contours.
But it is still possible to get caught and gou off. -
Watch out for your outline.
It is very easy to reach the wrong profile. -
This is especially true for complex shapes or closed profiles close to vertical walls. -
If you do make a mistake, you either merge the mistake or start over. -Take your time.
This is the longest and most tedious step. -
Believe in your model
You may not see the full shape when making the contours, but if you follow them you will be fine.
You will notice that your part has the effect of \"stair steps\" on it.
It would be great if you liked the effect, but this is usually considered a bad thing.
The more layers you use, the smaller the thickness of your layer, the more prominent this is.
In any case, you want to polish your parts and try to remove any rough edges or debris.
Ideally you will polish the part down to reduce or remove the stair steps.
I usually use the roots of the stair steps as a guide to sanding.
When you take out the rotary tool, the grinding and grinding drill bits work very well in this regard.
It is also a good idea to seal the surface of the part.
To do this, use non
Toxic acrylic paint
No one will see the blank of the painting, so use any convenient color (
No one will know you bought that weird green in the accident).
The paint covers several layers.
We make molds with corn starch.
This is a very cheap multi-function mold manufacturing method.
It can be used to mold chewing gum or any other sticky liquid such as candy.
In each molding, very little corn starch is used up, and after removing chewing gum, any corn starch in the bowl can be reused indefinitely.
Select a bowl or other container that is a little deeper than your part and fill it with corn starch.
It may be necessary to put corn starch briefly into the oven for drying.
You\'ll want to sift corn starch with a wire mixer or fork so it\'s nice and fluffy.
With a knife or other straight edge (
I used the kabob stick)
Make the surface of corn starch flat.
Try not to compress the corn starch here.
Gently press the blank part into the surface of corn starch.
You want to press it horizontally with the top surface or a bit deeper.
In my model, I decided to make cute mouse eyes with pearls without pare.
At this point, any sturdy additional decoration should be carefully placed into the mold.
I made a small pocket for my eyes with a toothpick, then pressed them into cornstarch and fixed them in the right place.
There are many recipes for making gum from scratch on the Internet.
This is not-
Doubt the best way to make gum material, there is a shortcut.
If you buy fudge that you like to taste, it can melt on the stove of the double boiler.
Be careful not to overheat because there is a small window between melting and burning.
For my molding, I even took a step back from here and melted the fudge in the microwave safe bowl in the microwave.
This includes some delicious as the gum melts in seconds.
Be very careful with melted gum!
It is very hot and very sticky, releasing more heat when it sets on your arm.
You may get a severe burn due to spills, and if you touch the melted gum it will stick to your fingers and burn.
I completely exposed myself in this pouring rain.
If you melt your gum with a stove, your gum melts and you don\'t have much time to move until they set.
Get everything ready before you start the stove.
Be careful and thoughtful once you melt, but don\'t delay.
Once your gum melts well, quickly transfer the contents to the mold and fill it to the edge.
I prefer microwave oven.
This allows for different techniques as long as your mold can fit into the microwave oven.
First of all, get your gum ready.
They will melt more easily if you chop them up a bit.
If you\'re using mixed flavors, mix them together in a pile.
If in doubt, use a little more than you think you need.
Some gum will stick to the plate and will be wasted.
Next, pick up your paper tray and cut a hole in the center as shown in the picture.
Fold the creases in the plate and sink the center of the plate into a funnel, as shown in the figure.
Make sure the size of your board so that it can cross the mold without interfering with the mold cavity.
Place your gum in the cone of the funnel, the funnel on top of the plate, and surround the hole around the mold cavity.
When your glue melts, they flow down through the center of the cone and enter the mold.
In this way, we don\'t have to deal with melted chewing gum.
It also does not require any cleaning as the plates are discarded after you have formed.
Put the mold with plates and chewing gum into the microwave.
Heating 5-
10 seconds each time until the glue melts completely and flows into the cavity.
You may see a small amount of boiling, but it doesn\'t matter.
Remove the board and cover the mold to prevent dust.
Pour it once, don\'t touch it!
Put the molded gum in a place that will not be disturbed.
Let it cool for 24 hours at room temperature.
Don\'t put it in the fridge or freezer as it will harden your gum.
Your gum should be completely solidified after 24 hours.
Just lift the part from the mold.
Trim off any glue that spills the side of the mold if needed or needed.
The scissors here are good.
You will notice that your gum is covered with corn starch. This is normal.
Put a small amount of oil (
Olives, vegetables, Canadian food, etc. . . )
Pack your gum in plastic bags or other containers.
Shake the bag or container, which will help to remove the flash, string, or sharp edges.
It can also remove corn starch to give the fudge a better surface finish.
At this point, all that\'s left to do is invite friends over and enjoy your gum in a good company.
Now that you have mastered these basic technologies, you can go in a few directions. Food-
Safe high temperature silicone RTV mold material is available from many sources, including possibly your local hobby shop.
This material can be used to make halfpermanent mold.
This is not so confusing and there are no additional steps for the corn starch mold.
It can also be used to cast other items.
You can make ice cubes with water elements!
With the silicone mold, you have another advantage.
The silicone mold is flexible, so it is possible to form the parts with the base material.
The blanks of these parts need to be cut using more advanced engraving technology.
In terms of chewing gum, you can try to make it from scratch.
This provides flexibility for custom colors and preferences.
These same molding techniques can also be used for casting hard sugar without change.
Experiment of combining decoration plug-ins or multiple plug-ins
Layered gum pour.
Kick gum with your feet and soak in vodka or other wine for one night to make intoxicating sweets.
Live 2, the mutant rabbit of radiation 3, or any other game will bring a lot of Google clicks to this game.
What better way to celebrate than eating some delicious chewing gum?
What more gum to eat than your own zombie ninja robot kitten assassin?
The problem is, your budget is limited and you can\'t afford the latest gummy-tech. Not a problem!
In this Instructable, we will go through the steps of preparing the model and transfer it to manufacturing the mold blank, forming the mold and making the gum.
How to enjoy them, you are your own.
As a fan of the scroll, I want to start with a good starting Monster, the mouse.
It\'s not fair to rip off their model now, so I\'m spinning on it as an interesting cartoon mouse.
Once you have your idea, you will need the following tools (or equivalents)(
View last picture):-
In all directions, a piece of wood is at least a little larger than your model.
I prefer balsa wood because it is cheap and easy to carve. -
Use a laser printer or copier.
At a critical moment, you can go to the local library to find a copier. -An iron (
The kind you use to iron clothes)-Tape (
Shielding, plumbing, Scotch whisky, etc. . . )-
Wood cutting tools.
I used the Dremel 565 multi-function cutting kit on my off-
The brand \"Dremel style\" rotary tool.
Candidates include :-A router (
Or router attachment for your tool)-
Milling Machine-
Router, end mill or rotary cutter cutting bit in drill press-Non-
Toxic acrylic paint
Several bowls and spoonsA paper plate-
Wire mixer or forkCorn starch-A microwave-
Candy of your favorite taste (any shape)-
Light oil (
Olives, vegetables, Canadian food, etc. . . )-
Next, we will slice the model.
Slices create a series of profiles from the part along a parallel plane.
This makes it possible to map things like terrain isograms.
We will use the outline to guide our cutting of the blanks.
Slice technology is widely used in rapid prototyping technology.
STL files are actually developed for use in rapid prototyping.
Slicing programs are quite common, including some free software or open source applications.
Free software is our friend because we work here very cheap.
In particular, we will use two programs :-MeshLab (
Will be used to process grid files.
It is crucial here that you do not use the latest version now due to a problem with the slicing function.
You need to use version 1. 2.
3, can be found here :-Inkscape (
Will be used to process the generated profile file.
These are very useful programs.
These give up the choices we want at least the hassle and cost.
It is difficult for us to touch the surface of their abilities.
When you\'re done here, I encourage you to become more familiar with these great systems.
We\'re going to cast the part of the gum.
Casting is the process of pouring hot liquid into the cavity and cooling it to the solid.
Designing a good casting requires some thought on your design.
The draft angle and base are important features of the part.
Draft angle is the bracket where your part is angled to a vertical wall (see the figure).
You are weakened when you have a negative draft.
There are techniques that can be used to cast parts with cuts, but these are for advanced classes.
The base material is not good because they will prevent you from taking the blanks out of the mold completely.
In fact, even vertical walls will hang on your mold and cause problems.
You need a minimum draft angle of 5 degrees, but more is better.
The draft angle applies to each surface of the part.
Note that in the picture, there is also a draft angle in the ear of the mouse.
Many CAD systems have tools for measuring draft angles that you may find useful for checking parts.
Another reason your part does not need to be weakened is that you will carve this part from above.
You won\'t be able to cut the weakening layer without a lot of extra work (
This will be a waste as it will mess up your mold).
For the sake of simplicity, our mold will be an open mold with only half of it.
Your part must have a flat surface as the base.
This will be the top of your cavity where you will Pour the melted glue.
The base surface will be the largest surface of the part.
In general, this will be the back or bottom of a part of you.
With these considerations, you need to modify your original model.
Your model in the game won\'t
There is no doubt that this is a comprehensive number with a lot of weakening.
You need to make a copy of the model and add or modify the features to eliminate the cut and create a good base surface.
The source of the model really depends on you.
Ideally, the best model is made by yourself.
Our ultimate goal is to make the required \"Grid files \".
While most CAD systems use files with arbitrary geometry: smooth surfaces, curves, plates, etc. . .
This gives us a lot of features because we can create any shape.
However, this is excessive for your regular video game.
To improve the processing, the shape is split into a set of polygons called grids.
3D CAD is my preferred tool for creating a new model.
Everyone has their own favorites and choosing a CAD package is beyond the scope of this manual.
Be sure to check out Autodesk 123D if you don\'t.
It is necessary to convert a file to a grid.
Usually using the save as command, all decent CAD packages can be saved to a grid file.
For our purpose. STL or a .
The OBJ file format is a fairly standard grid.
Autodesk 123D has a handy gallery if you need inspiration.
If you have already made your mod, you may have to convert your game files to a different format.
If you are making documents for oblivion, radiation 3 and several others, the information is in. NIF format.
Fortunately, this useful Wiki has information about a great tool called NifTools that allows you to view the data in your NIF file and export it as an OBJ file
For other games, you have to consult your documentation.
Not all grids are equal!
To get a better look, the game designer has to strike a balance between low polygon count and high polygon count.
When doing the model, the more you do the better.
The number of high polygons will result in a smoother part.
Fortunately, with the improvement of the game system, the model in the game gets a higher number of polygons.
For a comparison of polygon counts, see the figure.
If your model is more lumpy than you like, you have to load it into the editor for adjustments.
We\'re going to use a software called MeshLab to work with the mesh, which has tools to smooth the mesh if needed.
There are many other sources for Mesh files.
A quick search on Google will find a gallery of many mesh files.
If you have access to a 3D scanner, then you can use real objects as the basis for the model.
I have to insert a plug here for 3D scanning studies at my alma mater IIT.
If you really work hard, you can search the Grid files of your favorite games for inspiration.
First, start MeshLab.
It will ask you to load your grid files.
It may ask you to perform some processing options.
We will use Meshlab to convert the grid file to a series of profiles as an SVG format file.
I am trying to include a screenshot of each step in the process.
The slice tool is located in a parallel plane of the menu filter> mass measurement and calculation> cross section.
You need to do a little math here.
You need to decide how high your parts are, how thick the slices are, and how many layers of the parts are sliced.
This is a balance.
If you use more layers, you will have a smoother part, but you will have more layers to cut and it will be difficult to tell when cutting.
You must also decide the total length of the part, which will be used later.
I decided to do a 0 for this part.
75 \"the part of the 11-layer high gives the thickness of the 0 layer.
075 \", this seems reasonable.
I decided to specify 22 layers for the slice and discard each.
This avoids the first or last floor that may be fashionable.
In the dialog box, first select the default parameter and then enter the custom parameter :-
Unit: it doesn\'t matter because we will cover these units later so use it as CM-
Dimension on the longer axis: We will overwrite it later too, so I set it to 1-
Output file: it doesn\'t seem to matter.
The software always seems to use the same file name as the source file to change the extension. SVG. -
Custom axis: This collection defines the slice direction.
For my part, the \"Y\" axis is the vertical axis of my part, so I set it to 1 and the rest to 0. -
Flat reference: Set this to bounding box min.
It is important to set the point where the first slice is located. -
Medium thickness: this is a cosmetic value that will control the thickness that the slice shows on the preview screen.
Has no effect on the output file. I set it to .
02 for visual purposes. -
Number of aircraft: this is quite selfevident.
As we decided before, I used 22 pieces.
The rest of the options remain in default.
Click Apply and close \".
You can preview the results shown in the last screenshot.
You can close MeshLab now.
MeshLab has now generated profiles in SVG files, but the profiles are not necessarily scaled or assembled into a single profile shape.
We need to use Inkscape for this.
You can choose to open the generated SVG file directly or start Inkscape and import the SVG file into a new document.
In both cases, you need to set the document for the paper size.
Select document properties in the File menu \".
Set the default unit to the unit you like and I prefer inches.
If you do not open the SVG file directly, select import in the File menu to import the SVG file.
You may notice that the profile file is set in an array.
The first profile is broken at times, so we can use the second one in this case.
If all profiles are broken, check the slice settings in the previous step and try again.
Also, the outline is not scaled. Pressing Ctrl-
A to select all, drag the first good outline to the top left corner of the document so that you can measure it using the ruler.
For the mouse, I want to zoom it so that the total length is 2. 5 inches long.
To get a better measurement, I put the tail on the left edge of the page and hover the cursor over the nose of the mouse.
In the lower right corner, window Inkscape displays the cursor position, which is more accurate than the ruler measurement.
In this example, the current length is 0. 17 inches.
Now, take out your calculator again and calculate the scale factor you need.
The scaling factor is the desired length divided by the current length multiplied by 100%.
SF = DL/CL * 100% for Out parts this is: 2. 5/0.
17 * 100% = 1470% select transform in the objects menu to pull up the Transform dialog box.
Select the zoom tab and set the width and height values to the zoom factor and press apply \".
Select a set of outlines and select ungroup from the Edit menu \".
Since we set MeshLab to double the number of slices we need to make, select and remove all the other profiles.
Now is the time to merge the remaining contours into a single terrain mapping.
Box for each profile as a reference.
You will want to enable capture by enabling the enable capture button in the right toolbar (
See Figure 12).
You can also turn on the snap border box corner, the snap node or the handle, and the snap to the tip node selector.
In this way, the corners of the box will align with each other.
Keep in mind that the box and outline are separate objects.
You need to hold down the Shift key to select both (
This is different from the normal Windows MS operation;
There are different functions to select Ctrl.
When all profiles are assembled, delete the bounding box.
The line thickness of the profile may need to be adjusted. Use Ctrl-
A select all objects.
In the objects menu, select fill and stroke to pull up the line Properties dialog box.
In the stroke style tab, adjust the width value.
This will be a balance in which thin lines will be more difficult to see separate lines, but thick lines will overlap.
Your image will be flipped during transmission, so if the direction is important (e. g. text)
You then need to apply the vertical flip or horizontal flip command using the objects menu.
You are now set to switch from virtual to physical.
Save your work and print a copy of the profile file.
For this step, your transfer design must be printed with a laser printer or photocopier.
If you have an inkjet or other printer, you need to copy your pattern on the copier (
If you use a printer/copier, it must use a laser printer).
In a pinch, you can use a local copy shop or library.
But your transmission mode can be managed.
The reason for this requirement is that copiers and laser printers use heat to fix powder toner on paper.
We will fix some toner on the block using the same properties.
Put your iron under the heat.
Use tape to fix the transfer pattern on the block to the block on the side of the ink.
It would be helpful to tape the paper in such a way that you can raise a corner to check if the transfer is done.
Use a hot iron and carefully iron the paper onto the block.
Be sure to iron the entire surface for a complete transfer.
More ironing hurt.
Lift a corner carefully to check if the transfer is complete and replace and re-iron if needed.
The cutting kit attachment has a relatively small ring and I need to create a cutting fixture depending on the size of my block.
I cut a hole in a piece of 1/2 plywood and put it on two pieces of wood slightly higher than my block.
This allows me to keep my cutting depth well.
The rotating tool remains stationary and I move the block along the table.
I also marked the side of my block as a guide to depth.
You may remember the layer thickness and layers you previously calculated.
The spacing of the mark is the same as my layer thickness (0. 075 in. )
And the same number of marks as the number of layers (11)in my part.
Now is a good time to wear safety glasses.
Use these tools carefully.
For the first cut, you set the depth of the cut bit to the lowest layer.
You will start by cutting the outermost profile.
Be sure to be careful when cutting, your position can grab the part in an awkward time and dig the part in.
Practice and patience are required to cut parts accurately.
Once you have the complete outer profile, carve out the area around the part and make a level around the part.
Now set the depth to the next lighter level.
Come in carefully and carve out the second outline.
Repeat this until all the outlines are carved out.
Here are a few important tips :-
Be patient with these contours.
But it is still possible to get caught and gou off. -
Watch out for your outline.
It is very easy to reach the wrong profile. -
This is especially true for complex shapes or closed profiles close to vertical walls. -
If you do make a mistake, you either merge the mistake or start over. -Take your time.
This is the longest and most tedious step. -
Believe in your model
You may not see the full shape when making the contours, but if you follow them you will be fine.
You will notice that your part has the effect of \"stair steps\" on it.
It would be great if you liked the effect, but this is usually considered a bad thing.
The more layers you use, the smaller the thickness of your layer, the more prominent this is.
In any case, you want to polish your parts and try to remove any rough edges or debris.
Ideally you will polish the part down to reduce or remove the stair steps.
I usually use the roots of the stair steps as a guide to sanding.
When you take out the rotary tool, the grinding and grinding drill bits work very well in this regard.
It is also a good idea to seal the surface of the part.
To do this, use non
Toxic acrylic paint
No one will see the blank of the painting, so use any convenient color (
No one will know you bought that weird green in the accident).
The paint covers several layers.
We make molds with corn starch.
This is a very cheap multi-function mold manufacturing method.
It can be used to mold chewing gum or any other sticky liquid such as candy.
In each molding, very little corn starch is used up, and after removing chewing gum, any corn starch in the bowl can be reused indefinitely.
Select a bowl or other container that is a little deeper than your part and fill it with corn starch.
It may be necessary to put corn starch briefly into the oven for drying.
You\'ll want to sift corn starch with a wire mixer or fork so it\'s nice and fluffy.
With a knife or other straight edge (
I used the kabob stick)
Make the surface of corn starch flat.
Try not to compress the corn starch here.
Gently press the blank part into the surface of corn starch.
You want to press it horizontally with the top surface or a bit deeper.
In my model, I decided to make cute mouse eyes with pearls without pare.
At this point, any sturdy additional decoration should be carefully placed into the mold.
I made a small pocket for my eyes with a toothpick, then pressed them into cornstarch and fixed them in the right place.
There are many recipes for making gum from scratch on the Internet.
This is not-
Doubt the best way to make gum material, there is a shortcut.
If you buy fudge that you like to taste, it can melt on the stove of the double boiler.
Be careful not to overheat because there is a small window between melting and burning.
For my molding, I even took a step back from here and melted the fudge in the microwave safe bowl in the microwave.
This includes some delicious as the gum melts in seconds.
Be very careful with melted gum!
It is very hot and very sticky, releasing more heat when it sets on your arm.
You may get a severe burn due to spills, and if you touch the melted gum it will stick to your fingers and burn.
I completely exposed myself in this pouring rain.
If you melt your gum with a stove, your gum melts and you don\'t have much time to move until they set.
Get everything ready before you start the stove.
Be careful and thoughtful once you melt, but don\'t delay.
Once your gum melts well, quickly transfer the contents to the mold and fill it to the edge.
I prefer microwave oven.
This allows for different techniques as long as your mold can fit into the microwave oven.
First of all, get your gum ready.
They will melt more easily if you chop them up a bit.
If you\'re using mixed flavors, mix them together in a pile.
If in doubt, use a little more than you think you need.
Some gum will stick to the plate and will be wasted.
Next, pick up your paper tray and cut a hole in the center as shown in the picture.
Fold the creases in the plate and sink the center of the plate into a funnel, as shown in the figure.
Make sure the size of your board so that it can cross the mold without interfering with the mold cavity.
Place your gum in the cone of the funnel, the funnel on top of the plate, and surround the hole around the mold cavity.
When your glue melts, they flow down through the center of the cone and enter the mold.
In this way, we don\'t have to deal with melted chewing gum.
It also does not require any cleaning as the plates are discarded after you have formed.
Put the mold with plates and chewing gum into the microwave.
Heating 5-
10 seconds each time until the glue melts completely and flows into the cavity.
You may see a small amount of boiling, but it doesn\'t matter.
Remove the board and cover the mold to prevent dust.
Pour it once, don\'t touch it!
Put the molded gum in a place that will not be disturbed.
Let it cool for 24 hours at room temperature.
Don\'t put it in the fridge or freezer as it will harden your gum.
Your gum should be completely solidified after 24 hours.
Just lift the part from the mold.
Trim off any glue that spills the side of the mold if needed or needed.
The scissors here are good.
You will notice that your gum is covered with corn starch. This is normal.
Put a small amount of oil (
Olives, vegetables, Canadian food, etc. . . )
Pack your gum in plastic bags or other containers.
Shake the bag or container, which will help to remove the flash, string, or sharp edges.
It can also remove corn starch to give the fudge a better surface finish.
At this point, all that\'s left to do is invite friends over and enjoy your gum in a good company.
Now that you have mastered these basic technologies, you can go in a few directions. Food-
Safe high temperature silicone RTV mold material is available from many sources, including possibly your local hobby shop.
This material can be used to make halfpermanent mold.
This is not so confusing and there are no additional steps for the corn starch mold.
It can also be used to cast other items.
You can make ice cubes with water elements!
With the silicone mold, you have another advantage.
The silicone mold is flexible, so it is possible to form the parts with the base material.
The blanks of these parts need to be cut using more advanced engraving technology.
In terms of chewing gum, you can try to make it from scratch.
This provides flexibility for custom colors and preferences.
These same molding techniques can also be used for casting hard sugar without change.
Experiment of combining decoration plug-ins or multiple plug-ins
Layered gum pour.
Kick gum with your feet and soak in vodka or other wine for one night to make intoxicating sweets.
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