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roobee one - sla dlp aluminum frame 3d printer

by:Tuowei     2019-08-30
Roobee One is a sla dlp 3D printer inspired by Cristelia
SLA/LCD 3d printer and Vulcanus MAX 3D printer.
It is made of a 20x20mm aluminum profile case and features an adjustable print area of 80x60x200mm to 150x105x200mm using the acer dlp projector. The open-
Source machine is called RooBee One because it is red like a Ruby gem.
This structure will guide you on how to think about the whole build process of assembling one.
The machine design is open source and the skechup file can be downloaded for free to access all sizes and parts.
All sizes are within the scale range of 1 to 1.
To open the file, download the sketchup file here: 3D printed parts can be found on thingiverse: all 3D printed parts are from: Here is a list of materials you need :-
Aluminum profile (
Open the skechup file and see how much you need-M5 12 Screws-M5 nuts-
Stepping Motor (1.
2A 4000gr/cm is enough)-
Aluminum Motor Coupling from 5 to 8mm
30 cm M8 screw and nut-
2 LMK12LUU bearings-Plexi glass (
Open the skechup file and see how much you need-DLP projector (Acer X113P )-
Arduino\'s MIGA 2560RAMPS 1. 4 shield-
12 V power adapter-M5 wing nuts-
The M8 screw and the nutsThe aluminum frame are made up of 20x20mm aluminum profiles.
It consists of a rectangular prism of the bottom and ceiling floors as well as the center floor.
The structure is assembled together using the M5 nut plug-in and the M5x 10mm screw attached to the 3D printing corner.
This fixed technology is widely used in DIY aluminum profile enthusiasts.
Note: Do not forget to insert the M5 nut into the profile slot before fixing the corner.
To get a nice and stable frame you need to print 32 corners.
Each corner has 2 holes, which are used in the passage of M5 screws.
Print settings: Material: fineLayer height of PLA works: 0.
3mm support structure: the Z axis consists of most parts of the Cristelia 3D printer and some new parts of the open source design and some redesigned parts.
The linear guide rail system consists of two 12mm light slide bars and two linear LMK12UU bearings.
The bearing is installed in 3D printed parts, as well as the lead
Screw nut, as shown in the figure.
The transmission system consists of a 8mm ladder screw and nut and consists of a 16mm stepping motor.
The linear guide rail of the Z axis consists of 2 3D printed parts.
Motor support and top Rod support.
2 Printed parts secure 12mm smooth rods in the appropriate position.
The Z-axis is composed of Z-bar bracket, Z-step bracket and two Z-light slide Rod fixing devices in 4 parts.
Print setting: Material: working fineLayer height of PLA or PETG: 0.
Support structure of 3mm: The 3d printing section at the bottom uses 4 M3x20 screws to hold the mahogany 17 stepping motor in place.
The 3D print section in the middle holds the ladder nut in place.
The ladder screw is fixed to the stepping motor through the motor shaft coupler of the motor 5mm to 8mm.
Tighten the flat head screw on the connector using the Alan key.
Make sure that the M5 motor shaft does not invade the inside channel of the coupler M8.
This will minimize the Zwobble phenomenon. .
In order to adapt to the interior of the RooBee One machine, the Z arm must be redesigned from the original design.
The nut bracket was also redesigned from the original a arm.
The Z arm consists of 3d printed parts, 2 LMK12UU bearings, and a ladder nut.
The bearings are mounted in the holes of the 3D printed part and fixed using 8 M4x 40mm screws and nuts.
Fix the ladder nut using 4 M3x 30mm screws and nuts.
The Z arm is a big part and you need a printer that can print a huge size.
Print settings: layer height: 0.
3mm support structure: the translation and tilt of the Cristelia system can be adjusted by canceling the red nobs.
The new position is tightened nobs again than locking in the appropriate position.
This adjustment system is very useful in order to parallel the building surface to VAT.
I take this opportunity to thank the Cristelia developers for sharing their designs.
The Yuntai system is excellent and you need M5 wing nut and M5 screw bar.
There are 7 parts in total.
Print settings: Material: PETGLayer height: 0.
3mm support structure: Outside the projector needs to be placed in a static position during printing.
This is done by using the yellow corner to fix the projector in the appropriate position.
Before that, make sure the projector is aligned with the VAT center.
Also, to avoid heating the projector during operation, please make sure there is air circulation.
Print 4 of these parts.
Print settings: Material: layer height: 0.
3mm support structure: outside the VAT is where you pour the resin.
My first option is the 3mm plexiglass container.
Fix the plate to VAT using organic glass glue.
The VAT container consists of 5 plexiglass panels, 4 red panels and 1 crystal panel.
After you glue them in place, you need to glue 2 more pieces as the wings of VAT.
The fixing method is done using special acrylic glue, and in order to apply it, you need a syringe and a pair of gloves if there are gloves.
Be very careful to handle the glue, it is very toxic and dangerous.
The VAT base is 3mm plexiglass.
The glass is glued to it with a special organic glass.
Glue is applied with a syringe.
After Gluing all the plexiglass parts together, you need to make sure that your VAT is water tight, which can be achieved by putting a colored liquid in the VAT (
Take pen ink as an example)
Put VAT under a blank sheet of paper.
If your paper is still white, your VAT is likely to be watertight after 5 to 10 minutes.
If not, you just need to apply another layer of glue.
The VAT option 1 does not work, so we used the FEP foil solution and the result was good.
To get a nice plane, you need to apply a good tension on the FEP foil.
Glue the fFEP foil to VAT using double sided tape.
The VAT bracket is made of 6mm acrylic sheet.
We made a center hole using CNC in order to put VAT into it.
The size of the hole depends on the minimum focus of the projector.
After that, several holes were drilled in order to fix the VAT bracket on the aluminum frame.
In addition to these holes, two holes were drilled to make way for the VAT fixing system.
The VAT fixing system is done by fixing the VAT on the stand and tightening the wing nut until the VAT is under pressure from the 2 pieces of acrylic resin shown in the photo.
In order to achieve these two Springs where they are used, when VAT is released from the bracket, they create tension, making it easier.
The aluminum printing bed is made of a 5mm aluminum sheet and it has 4 M3 holes aligned with the 4 M3 holes on his printed parts.
Where drilling is done to some extent, the tapered head of the M3 20mm screw is perfectly suited to the hole.
Additional adjustments-
Ability, 4 springs are used between each screw.
This allows the position of the plate to be adjusted in 3 sizes.
The screw is the screw located on the M3 lock nut inside the 3D printed part.
This ensures that the screws are not easily released or released on their own.
Note: In order to optimize the adhesion of 1 layer, the surface of the aluminum plate is polished.
The print bed calibration is done manually, the idea is to have the aluminum plate parallel to the bottom of the VAT, which is done by several agencies, first through the UN
Second, tighten the red knob and tilt the system
Tighten the wing nut and pan the system and finally tighten or cancel
Cross the screws under the aluminum plate.
The United Nations can also adjust its height
Tighten the top knob.
Once the calibration is complete, make sure to tighten all the parts again.
After you calibrate the build board, you need to shake the resin and pour it into VAT.
Make sure you have enough resin to print and have enough minimum quantity thresholds.
The electronics consist of Arduino MEGA Ramp 1.
4 Shield, micro stepping driver, a class 17 stepping motor that meets the Film Society, an endstop and a 12 v transformer.
Connect all components by chart.
The step drive is connected to the Z position on the ramp board.
Don\'t forget to put all 3 jumpers on the ramp under the driver (
This will communicate 16 Micro
Step on your micro-step Drive).
Endstop is connected to Zmin endstop on the ramp.
Finally, the Z motor cable is connected to the Z motor connection on the ramp board.
Arduino/Ramps is positioned on the rear panel using 4 zippers.
To pass the zipper, there are 4 holes in the rear panel.
This fixing method is temporary until we print a beautiful box for the ArduinoRAMPS combo.
Make sure the cable hanging is neat and beautiful.
Z min mechanical end-
Stop is located next to the 12mm light slide bar and fixed.
This is possible due to the fact that 2 3D printed parts hold the sensor in place.
Z endstop has two printed parts that are connected to each other using 2 M3x20 screws and nuts.
They close the end stop bar to the vertical light slide bar.
If, for any reason, the system does not hold tightly despite the 12mm bar, you can always archive the parts to reduce the diameter of the extension.
By doing so, you can grab the 12mm bar more closely. The end-
Lock the stop in place using 2 M3x 12mm screws and nuts.
Take a look at the photos and look at the orientation of the end --stop. Your end-
By colliding with the vertical screws of the LMK12UU bearing, the stop will be triggered.
Print 2 of these parts.
Print settings: Material: layer height: 0.
3mm support structure: offI has always been a user of repetier firmware and we use it in all printers and I\'m glad we also use it in Roobee firmware.
Head, repetier.
Download the free firmware.
After downloading, extract the content and change the following parameters in the configuration.
H File: 20mmZ endtop Z minZ reverse Z pullup size per mm 400z download Arduino IDE here: www. arduino.
Connect the USB cable to the Arduino and turn on the repetier.
Ino file and select Arduino MEGA-in the menu options-tools -board.
Now go back to the menu options tool and select COM port to connect to Arduino and upload firmware (COMx).
If all goes well, you will now have a full Upload message in the lower left corner of the Arduino IDE interface.
Download the attachment.
It has been configured for RooBee One.
Run the exe file and select the help option in the upper left corner, then click user manual and read the document.
All the information you need is well documented.
I have configured all the important parameters for your first print, all you need to do is double check your projector resolution in configuration, machine configuration.
First, you need to check if the Z motor and the Z-end stop are working.
Navigate to \"control\" and move the Z axis up and down.
After that, adjust the z-axis speed if necessary.
Finlay test the Z end stops and positions it in place.
To print, connect the Arduino to your computer using a USB cable.
Then import an object, then press the play button, and press slice \".
A new black window will appear on the projector with the first layer of the print.
The estimate of time will be displayed in the upper right corner.
If there is any problem, you can cancel the print by clicking the stop button.
Make sure to cover the projector as this option projects the last layer onto the resin.
The SLA resin used is the standard blend resin for Fun to do resin.
In my experience, it\'s a bit toxic, so for this reason I installed a fan on top of the printer to guide the toxic steam outside away from the machine operator.
They are an acrylic resin system with very attractive properties :-
Wide wavelength range-
Suitable for laser, Dlp, Led system
Short exposure time-Low shrinkage-
Hard, soft, pouring-
High chemical resistance
The range of colorsMDF printers is very clean compared to SLA printers, you need to wear gloves at all times to avoid contact with sticky toxic resin, you also need some paper towels or paper towels to clean any of the necessary contaminated objects.
Also, you need tap water and detergent to clean up before and after printing.
About toxic air particles (smell)
, FunToDo resin inhalation is not healthy, you should avoid inhaling these particles, you can install the fan to the top ceiling of the RooBee chassis, or use it like I did, in the laboratory fume hood
After printing, you should clean everything extensively to avoid polluting the air of the room with contaminated objects (
Contaminated with resin).
The build platform can be easily removed for cleaning purposes.
If you do not have the conditions to use the machine, I suggest you stay away from the SLA machine before you have no security conditions.
RooBee has become great and this is a practical machine coming soon.
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