Build a DIY Desktop 3d Scanner With Infinite Resolution.
If you like to shop in AliExpress, you can build it for about $30.
If you want to support your local middleman, you also need to have more power, but pay more.
The giant screws shown above are made of ordinary drywall screws shot using this scanner and Nikon DSLR.
Desktop 3d scanning has made a great leap in recent years, but there are still great limitations.
The scanner hardware is built around a specific scan volume and resolution.
You can get good results, but only if your goals match that sweet spot.
If your object is too small, or too detailed, or if your scanner has just had a bad day, your scan will look like a potato.
Fortunately, there is another way.
Photographic measurements use a set of regular 2d photos taken from all angles around the object.
If a point on an object can be seen in at least three pictures, then its position can be triangulated and measured in three dimensions.
By identifying and counting the location of thousands or even millions of points, the software can create a very accurate reproduction.
Unlike a hardware-based scanner, there is no size or resolution limit for this process.
If you can shoot an object, you can scan it in 3d.
It works from molecules to galaxies, or it works if they approve my Hubble telescope time.
The limiting factor of photographic measurement is the quality of the photo and therefore the skill of the photographer.
Photos must be well exposed with clear focus.
They also have to be separated around objects so that they can capture each part to be scanned and overlap enough that the software can know where each lens belongs.
This can be done manually with some practices for large objects, but for small objects it is almost impossible to do well.
The scanner automatically completes the process.
High quality photography scanning requires high quality photos taken from all angles.
The easiest way to scan small things is to rotate the object while shooting.
The scanner uses a stepping motor controlled by an arduino board.
The pedometer turns the object to a fixed amount, and then the infrared LED will emit a series of extremely clever flashes similar to the camera\'s wireless remote control.
The camera is gullible and would like to ask it to take a picture.
The LCD display screen shield with a set of buttons allows the user to control the arduino.
Using the button, the user can select the number of pictures taken per revolution.
The scanner can run in auto mode, take pictures in auto mode, push the step forward and repeat until a complete revolution is completed.
There is also a manual mode that takes pictures, pushes the step and waits every time a button is pressed.
This is very useful for scanning that requires manual setting of frames and focusing on each picture.
When the photo measurement software detects the feature in the photo, it tries to find the feature in other photos and record its location in all photos.
If the feature is part of a rotating object, we get good data.
If the detected feature is on the background and does not move in the rest of the object, then at least for your software, it may result in an internal explosion of a space-time continuum.
There are two solutions.
One is to move the camera around the object so that the background is kept in sync with the motion.
This works well for large objects, but automation is much more difficult.
The simpler solution is to keep the background non-featured.
This is easy to do for small objects.
Like a studio scan, take a plain piece of paper and present a seamless white background.
By combining this with proper lighting, you\'ll be able to get to a non-featured background well.
Another trick is to overexpose your images in front of one or two stops.
This allows you to capture more detail in the shadow of the object, while extinguishing the background so that any remaining background features will disappear in hot white. An arduino.
Any arduino can work.
I used a mega because it has a pin that is not covered by the LCD shield, which makes wiring easier.
The SainSmart 1602 LCD shield provides displays and buttons for a bunch of control scanners.
Stepping Motor Driver (
I am using a simple driver)
This allows the Arduino to drive the stepping motor.
Any step drive should work because we don\'t ask too much except to drive the step drive, after all, the step drive is a tool for them to make a living.
An AC motor that can rotate the scanned object.
With a larger stepping motor (
Have the right drive and power supply)
This scanner can zoom in on the scanning part of the giant robot you found at the garbage station.
950 nm infrared led that triggers the camera.
If you are the kind of person who finds this kind of thing interesting, you may be able to rescue one from the old TV remote.
Some kind of power supply for Arduino and stepping motors.
9 v Wall HDD works fine, 9 v battery works in critical moments, but battery needs to be fresh.
This step will not work when powered by a USB port only.
I have attached the 3d printed file of the box I made.
It is very elegant and will definitely be part of Pinterest due to its beauty and innovative style.
While it is reckless to try to equate this classic design, feel free to present your own, smaller respect.
Please let me know if you do, as I like the case that looks better.
If you have the eyes and fingers of a 10 year old, it is very simple to connect these pieces.
If you don\'t, maybe you can find someone to help you, or at least lend you their eyes and fingers.
The plan shows the pins I use in the firmware, but this is very simple and you can switch them to the one that works best for you.
The EasyDriver board is mounted on the cover of the case, so it is better ventilated.
I was going to put a radiator on it, but it doesn\'t seem to need it.
We did not push the pace very hard.
Savvy observers may notice that we are powering EasyDriver for Arduino\'s unregulated power terminal.
It may not be the best practice, but it is unlikely to lead to time --
Because we don\'t get too much energy, space continues to experience the explosion.
Again, I installed a ballast resistor on the LED just because everyone who knows better than me said I should.
Since the LED only emits a short pulse, there is not much time to cook at a voltage of up to 5 v from the motherboard, but follow your own conscience here.
Wall LEDs for 9 v are the best power supply, but the new 9 v battery can also work, but it won\'t last long.
If everything else is working except the stepping motor, because arduino will work on partially depleted batteries, EasyDriver will not.
You can download the fritzing schematic from the firmware sketch and open it in the Arduino IDE.
Firmware is configured by default to work with Nikon cameras.
If you are using a different brand, you need to change the configuration of line 47.
The scanner implements a multi-camera infrared control library for Sebastian Setz, so it can work with an infrared remote control of almost any brand.
If you are using Leica or hasabarad, you may be able to afford to hire a gentleman
Setz write you the driver.
Controls are as follows: Select: Start/Stop Auto scan.
Left: manual mode.
Trigger exposure and advance a unit clockwise.
Right: step clockwise without triggering the camera.
Down: step counter-clockwise without triggering the camera.
UP: cycle through the options for the number of exposures per revolution.
Don\'t ask me why I\'m doing this.
It made sense at that time.
The sketch is very simple, so you should be easy to customize if you need it.
If you receive a compiler error from the dfr_key Library, try installing version 1. 1.
It has the dfr_key library in the download package.
Lighting is essential for photographic measurement. I use 3-
Four jansjo table lamps from Ikea light up the theme.
These lights are very easy to locate and can emit a lot of light.
Their heads are small, so it\'s easy to light up small objects.
They are LEDs, so there is almost no heat.
You can improvise the diffuser with plain paper and tape without worrying about lighting the secret lab.
And $10 each!
I sometimes use cheap light on the camera lens too, which provides good diffuse light, but since it is attached to the filter ring of the lens, it tends to get in the way of the macro lens where the subject is almost in contact with the lens.
I use Amazon\'s $25 macro rail to help locate the camera.
It is about a rigid, overcooked Raman (
This is the correct singular form, of course)
If the macro track doesn\'t actually collapse under the weight of your very expensive and impressive camera (
Don\'t blame me if there is)
Let\'s say you didn\'t hold your photo meeting in a hurricane, and noodles like flexibility don\'t matter, because you don\'t actually touch the camera when you\'re exposed.
Box your theme so it can fill in as many pictures as possible.
Ensure the focus of as many images as possible.
After completing the rotation, reposition the camera vertically.
Shoot as many revolutionary objects as you think you need to capture.
You currently have a lot of photographic measurement software options, but there are a few options that will clearly lead the trend: Agisoft Photoscan is the best business package that can be affordable remotely.
For this type of scan, the standard version of $180 is sufficient.
It should be noted that the photographic measurement calculation is very intensive, so it (and you)
On the most powerful machine you can muster, the shipping line is the happiest.
If you run your grandma\'s 486 and are angry that Microsoft no longer supports XP, it will be bad for you.
Autodesk Memento is a very successful product.
If you have low quality photos or not many, it can sometimes be better than Agisoft.
After the scan is done, it has better processing tools, but less control over the scan itself.
Memento is cloud based, which is fine if you have an old slow computer, but if you feel you can handle the scan faster on the Hampstead-powered Babbage engine,
It is currently free but may not always be free.
123d Catch is Autodesk\'s consumer-level photographic measurement software package.
The advantage of it is that you can manually align photos, which helps to save bad scans without enough overlap between photos.
But the number of photos you can upload is limited, so it\'s hard to scan very detailed stuff.
Just because you can align photos manually doesn\'t mean it\'s a fun way to spend your spare time.
So make yourself a scanner.
Make a second mortgage on a secret nest, buy a very expensive and impressive camera, or at least buy a decent camera to shoot in macro mode.
Find a dead bug that looks innocent, scan it, and use it as the basis for your Giant Robot Monster Army, planning to take over the world any day now.
If you would like to learn more about photography measurement and 3d printing, please check out the \"3d Printing Today podcast\" provided by iTunes and any places that give away exquisite podcasts \".
We discussed the creation of this scanner in show #111.
We talked about awesome 3d printing tips and tricks in all 125 (and counting)episodes.
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