led projector mod for 3d printing
The specific model you are using may be quite different from this one, but if it is an LED projector then the basic process should be very similar.
Background: I want to make a resin printer.
I went to get the DLP projector and bought the Pyle Audio PRJG45 when I didn\'t realize I ordered the LED projector. Oops. . .
Well, it\'s project with LEDs and I already know how hard is there UV LEDs so, mod?
It turned out to be really easy. . . .
It just doesn\'t work the way I want it.
Question: I plan to replace the white LED with the UV LED.
The problem is that these LED projectors use the LCD to color and form pixels for white light, and the LCD does not allow UV light to pass through them.
The LCD display is only allowed through the selected color range, and the UV light is outside of this.
However, everything will not be lost because the resin can be cured at other wavelengths instead of defining the super
For example, the range of purple light, blue light curing (~460nm)resin.
Warning: the instructions below are written to replace the original White LED with a uv led, I now know that this will not work due to the limitations of the LCD screen!
My current plan for this project is 1.
Replace the current LED with a blue LED (
Not sure what wavelength it is)and 2.
Experiment with blue light curing resin. . .
Of course, the details there may change because I haven\'t solved all the problems yet.
I will update this \"possibility\" soon with the correct instructions and the scientific section on why the UV LED can\'t work as planned and the options to solve the problem \".
I also plan to buy a dead man.
Bulb DLP projector with uv led replacement, provides me with a system for more traditional printing resin and I will also create a possibility for it.
Concept: this is an LED based light/Image projector.
The Mod should be as simple as opening the machine, de-
Welding LED and welding in replacement parts.
There are some details along the way that need to be addressed, but I will cover them in the next few steps.
Recommended instrument: the recommended material requires a 10 W wavelength LED, which is what you want to use. (
Before purchasing the LED, make sure you can get or prepare the resin cured at that wavelength)
The \"holder\" of the projector is secured by screws on the bottom four deep inner sides that go through the fuselage and screw directly into the lid.
On my projector, one of them was covered with a sticker from the quality inspector.
I also removed three other small screws from the bottom that might be connected to the radiator.
The screws under the lens must not come out.
No snapshot of the lid on the projectortogether clips.
Once the lid gets in the way, you should see what the picture shows --
Three screws hold it down.
You need to disconnect the tiny ribbon cable from the back edge of the top, however, don\'t simply pull!
It may be damaged by unplugging the cable.
I have done it on other devices before.
To release the cable, there is a small bar or clip (
I don\'t remember what it was called, but it was a little bit dark on the white female Port)
Just pop it up with a nail or something that won\'t damage the cable.
Several power connectors need to be removed from the bottom.
Gently lift the board and unplug it with nails or some hobby pliers.
These connectors can be fragile, so don\'t pull the wire.
It may be wise to mark which connector arrives at which port just in case.
No rockets were hurt in the process of making this \"possible.
After turning off the \"lights\" and the free circuit board, it\'s time to remove the lights.
Observe the orientation of the bracket, then unscrew the lens bracket and put the bracket and lens on one side.
Next, unscrew the LED bracket from the radiator.
Again, see how these parts are combined and maybe take a picture.
It looks simple.
Okay, we already opened-
Heat your welding instrument and tin tip as needed.
Then proceed to the next step!
First, mark the two wires connected to the LED so you don\'t confuse them. De-
When performing the next step, note the mark on the lamp
They pointed out how to locate the new lights.
Pull the old White LED out of the bracket.
The legs of the LED are shaped so far that they prevent the easy extraction of the LED.
Go ahead and take it out.
That little light may be a good light bulb.
To install the new light into the bracket, you need to bend the lead up and probably curl it up a little.
Maybe not, but I have to do that in order to get my body healthy.
It is very important to properly install the LED so that the metal backing can be in contact with the radiator to the maximum extent.
You finished the hard part.
It\'s not hard to reassemble the projector, but I \'ve listed the steps as a reference.
When handling wires, try to keep them away from the light path and cooling fans.
You may have noticed, but at some key points the cables have been designed to guide the body of the machine to help them stay where they are needed, away from the burning death of something like wire shorts.
Hopefully the flame will not be involved, but it would be convenient to have a fire extinguisher anyway.
I don\'t know yet if we need to remove something like crystals, but when I test the projector I can vaguely see a little light projected on the wall, so I know it works to some extent.
However, when I point the digital camera to the projected lens, I can see that the output is very bright.
If you don\'t have any resin that can be cured yet, you can at least see if the lamp is working, but noShield or low
Shielded digital camera to check.
Most digital cameras may or should shield the UV to make the projector look dark, but some cameras, like the one on my phone, look no problem under UV.
To check, point to a remote control that eventually uses a diode on your digital camera.
Then, when you look at the received image, press and hold a button on the remote control and you should see the bright glow on the screen. Tada! You\'ve done it!
Please do not try to view the output path of the projector directly, otherwise you may damage your eyesight.
I plan to test this printer with print visible spectrum light curing resin.
I\'m looking at H-
NU 470 light-induced resin.
They are not cheap but I really hope to find suppliers for PI and co-
The initiator of them will be sold in a non-hybrid format so I can test, store and even distribute them.
If I came up with a good solution, it might be like this.
When I finish my SLA printer, I plan to update \"visible\" with more details and I will install one separately for the printer itself.
Thank you for reading and I hope this article will help you!