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How to Ensure CNC Machining Accuracy
laminated 3d printer (from laser cut parts only)
by：Tuowei
2019-09-04
When I want to make my first printer, of course I will choose the Prusa I3 design.
I have added a Makerspace so I can print the component to make it.
Makerspace 3D printers have proved to be fickle and prices have fallen a lot.
So I decided to laser cut my first printer instead of printing a 3D printer.
I\'m actually using the laminate printer method to create a FDM printer.
Embedded video will give you an impression of the composition of the components.
You can download the entire model: laser cut components using 12x28 inch acrylic sheets (3mm thick).
In this note, I will not enter the wiring of ramp 1. 4 setup.
This is described in the subsequent instructable 3D printer ramp 1.
I am trying to accompany the image of most steps in each main step.
If you get lost in text, look at the images in the sequence they present.
Throughout the instructions I have listed the parts and quantities you need.
Here is a complete list of materials linked to their source.
M3 hex sre w 6mm hex sre w 8mm M3 hex sre w 10mm hex sre w 14mm hex sre w 20mm hex sre w 25mm hex sre w 10mm M4 hex sre w 40mm 5/16 dental strips Home warehouse)
5/16 nut Home Depot)
Acrylic resin for McMaster Car catalog/123/3632/= 1b3zn0. . .
6 12 \"x 24\" scs8 uu linear motion ball bearing LM8UU linear ball bearing spring leveling assembly soft shaft coupling 5mm to 8mm 2-Pack -
Linear motion Bar 8mm x 406mm axis 17 1. 7A (5 pack)
Idler Gt2 timing belt pulley 20 tooth printer bed spring Mount Mk8 extruder Gt2 timing belt I am a subsidiary of Amazon.
If you really want to support the work I do in these guidance sheets, please purchase the parts through these links.
I make a few bucks at most. Thx.
All the laminate materials for this printer use 3mm acrylic resin, cut out from 12 \"x 24\" 1/8 thick sheet, I purchased acrylic resin from McMaster Car (
Project 8505K127 at $ month. 27/sheet)
3 DXF files are attached to the design.
You must go through any steps required to set up a laser cutter to cut properly.
Remember to cut the small hole before the big part to prevent displacement.
In order to reach the appropriate number of layers required, the laser cut each DXF twice.
It looks like there are a lot of things, but once the laser starts cutting, you can sit and relax and enjoy the light show (
Don\'t look at the laser directly).
The frame is designed to be 2 layers thick and cut in half to accommodate a 12 \"x24\" acrylic sheet.
Two and a half and a smaller part.
For connectors, M3 Inner hex screws, 20mm and nuts are used for laminating materials, M3 Inner hex screws are used only, and brackets for the 8mm and nut support frames are made up of two laminated materials.
More holes are available on one side and can be selected for connecting the electronic device.
Choose one side if you choose to do so.
The bracket slides into the frame and is connected with screws and nuts suitable for the cross-shaped cavity.
20mm screws are used to support connectors.
At this point, you can also add a screw of 320mm 5/16 with a bolt, although it may need to move back and forth depending on your Y-axis. The Y-
The shaft indicates the bed and frame that moves the bed forward from the back.
The Assembly contains laser-cut laminated materials and a considerable amount of hardware.
First assemble the front plate by connecting the front plate with 4 8mm screws (on 4 corners).
Perform the same action on the back panel and add a roller holder with 2 16mm Scews/nutsAdd. Add the smooth rod to the back end, with 4 bolts on each rod, add the scs8 uu linear motion ball bearing to the straight rod, and add the front plate and bolts on the outside.
Add roller between Roller holder with 25mm screw/nut add name 17 motor add gt2 20 tooth pulley to motor shaft using 4 6mm ironing plate, and before fastening it with the roller bed frame to three linear bearings using 12 m4 10mm also add 2 m4 40mm screws to the center of the bed frame, 10 boards with connectors come with two laminated materials, which are on the bottom.
When connecting the timing belt, the wheel and roller around the name 17 (
At the other end)
It passes through the holes provided on the bed connector and goes down the teeth from the top.
When folding teeth, should meet.
Clamp the two together with the small clip with 2 8mm screws and nuts.
When connecting the second end of the belt, add small clips, but do not tighten them before tightening the belt.
Any additional tightening can be done with an additional twist spring.
After adding the belt, you can add the bed to the top of the bed frame using the bed spring leveling assembly.
At this point, the construction of the y-axis has been completed.
The x-axis will support the extruder and move from left to right.
There are a lot of laminate involved in the sliding Z-at both ends of the shaft-
For X-axis and support baraxis.
The following hardware is required for the X axis. There are two ends to this shaft, which I call mahogany ends (
This will be in line with the torque motor)
Only the Idler wheel end of the Gt2 timing belt and idler wheel is supported.
For those special plates, it can be identified by large holes with 4 holes next to them.
The laminated material dedicated to the Idler wheel end can be identified by 5 screw holes, or it can identify the compact without large holes.
Each end fits together like a lock.
As shown in the figure, arrange and connect the fragments together.
There are 9 layers of the main body.
Repeat these steps for the idle side.
Make sure to place the actual idler wheel at the top of the first layer (
When you\'re lying on other layers, use something like a toothpick to keep it in place.
At this point, 3 bearing blocks can be added to the linear bar and inserted into the components at both ends.
In my building I used a full metal angle bracket to support the MK8 extruder.
If you choose to use a different type of extruder and/or connector, the following steps may vary for your build.
The use of the angle bracket will be connected to three bearing blocks and available from AliExpress. There is a variant on Amazon that is only connected to two bearing blocks, but similar in the build.
Attach the bracket to the bearing block and insert two 25mm screws with the timing belt installed.
When connecting the timing belt, the wheel and roller around the name 17 (
At the other end)
Around the screws squeezed on the back of the extruder holder.
When folding teeth, should meet.
Clamp the two together with the small clip with 2 8mm screws and nuts.
When connecting the second end of the belt, add small clips, but do not tighten them before tightening the belt.
Any additional tightening can be done with an additional twist spring.
At this point, the entire x-axis has been completed and can be installed in Z-
Axis in the next step.
At this point, the entire frame, the y-axis and the x-axis are all done, and at this point we can build the Z-
We install the X axis. axis (
This needs to be done first.
The hardware requires the first stack of 3 mounting fillers and a corner stand that meets the film standard is installed on the frame (
Both sides do so).
Add 2 layers of standard-compliant brackets to the top of the angle bracket (
Slip into the gap in the frame)
Connect the 14mm to 8mm coupler to the AC shaft with 8 5mm ironing boards of mahogany stepping motors with 8mm screws/nuts. The next step will be a balancing action.
You can choose: add the screw and linear rod to the x-axis assembly and subtly place all 4 bars in the appropriate position. Add the rod to the appropriate position (
Not very strong but can stay if careful)
And slide on the x-axis assembly.
Add the NUT to each screw before adding the x-axis assembly (
Somewhere in the middle, preferably the same height).
Add adjustable Z-
End Stop assembly consisting of 4 lamite, mounted on a linear rod. The adjustable assembly is a 45mm screw, and the thumb nut and ballpoint pen spring closes the assembly with a top laminate that holds all 4 rods in place and connects to the frame.
The next step will be to discuss adding the y-axis component. At this point, the only thing missing is to connect the completed Y component to the main printer component. Put the y axis component in the frame.
Make sure that the two bolts on each rod are opened and on each side of the frame.
Lift the y axis assembly at a certain angle, and the extrusion screw will be in place below the screw on the frame and tighten the bolt.
Make sure that the back plate of the y axis assembly touches the screw on the back of the frame.
The final step is to attach the laminated clamp to the screw perimeter and the y-axis assembly.
The rest is to connect the MK8/MK7 extruder and end station.
Little secret: the ends are all pasted with hot glue.
Run for 4 years, no problem.
So you have it.
My first printer build is all ready for you.
This printer has been running for about 4 years and has never caused me any problems.
It prints the first part of my larger corxy printer, but still acts as my backup printer.
The following component parts of this design are re-designed
Use/re-design from 3rd Square.
Here is the list of used designs: nema17 corner bracket: extruder: pulley GT2 (
20 teeth, 5mm holes)
I have added a Makerspace so I can print the component to make it.
Makerspace 3D printers have proved to be fickle and prices have fallen a lot.
So I decided to laser cut my first printer instead of printing a 3D printer.
I\'m actually using the laminate printer method to create a FDM printer.
Embedded video will give you an impression of the composition of the components.
You can download the entire model: laser cut components using 12x28 inch acrylic sheets (3mm thick).
In this note, I will not enter the wiring of ramp 1. 4 setup.
This is described in the subsequent instructable 3D printer ramp 1.
I am trying to accompany the image of most steps in each main step.
If you get lost in text, look at the images in the sequence they present.
Throughout the instructions I have listed the parts and quantities you need.
Here is a complete list of materials linked to their source.
M3 hex sre w 6mm hex sre w 8mm M3 hex sre w 10mm hex sre w 14mm hex sre w 20mm hex sre w 25mm hex sre w 10mm M4 hex sre w 40mm 5/16 dental strips Home warehouse)
5/16 nut Home Depot)
Acrylic resin for McMaster Car catalog/123/3632/= 1b3zn0. . .
6 12 \"x 24\" scs8 uu linear motion ball bearing LM8UU linear ball bearing spring leveling assembly soft shaft coupling 5mm to 8mm 2-Pack -
Linear motion Bar 8mm x 406mm axis 17 1. 7A (5 pack)
Idler Gt2 timing belt pulley 20 tooth printer bed spring Mount Mk8 extruder Gt2 timing belt I am a subsidiary of Amazon.
If you really want to support the work I do in these guidance sheets, please purchase the parts through these links.
I make a few bucks at most. Thx.
All the laminate materials for this printer use 3mm acrylic resin, cut out from 12 \"x 24\" 1/8 thick sheet, I purchased acrylic resin from McMaster Car (
Project 8505K127 at $ month. 27/sheet)
3 DXF files are attached to the design.
You must go through any steps required to set up a laser cutter to cut properly.
Remember to cut the small hole before the big part to prevent displacement.
In order to reach the appropriate number of layers required, the laser cut each DXF twice.
It looks like there are a lot of things, but once the laser starts cutting, you can sit and relax and enjoy the light show (
Don\'t look at the laser directly).
The frame is designed to be 2 layers thick and cut in half to accommodate a 12 \"x24\" acrylic sheet.
Two and a half and a smaller part.
For connectors, M3 Inner hex screws, 20mm and nuts are used for laminating materials, M3 Inner hex screws are used only, and brackets for the 8mm and nut support frames are made up of two laminated materials.
More holes are available on one side and can be selected for connecting the electronic device.
Choose one side if you choose to do so.
The bracket slides into the frame and is connected with screws and nuts suitable for the cross-shaped cavity.
20mm screws are used to support connectors.
At this point, you can also add a screw of 320mm 5/16 with a bolt, although it may need to move back and forth depending on your Y-axis. The Y-
The shaft indicates the bed and frame that moves the bed forward from the back.
The Assembly contains laser-cut laminated materials and a considerable amount of hardware.
First assemble the front plate by connecting the front plate with 4 8mm screws (on 4 corners).
Perform the same action on the back panel and add a roller holder with 2 16mm Scews/nutsAdd. Add the smooth rod to the back end, with 4 bolts on each rod, add the scs8 uu linear motion ball bearing to the straight rod, and add the front plate and bolts on the outside.
Add roller between Roller holder with 25mm screw/nut add name 17 motor add gt2 20 tooth pulley to motor shaft using 4 6mm ironing plate, and before fastening it with the roller bed frame to three linear bearings using 12 m4 10mm also add 2 m4 40mm screws to the center of the bed frame, 10 boards with connectors come with two laminated materials, which are on the bottom.
When connecting the timing belt, the wheel and roller around the name 17 (
At the other end)
It passes through the holes provided on the bed connector and goes down the teeth from the top.
When folding teeth, should meet.
Clamp the two together with the small clip with 2 8mm screws and nuts.
When connecting the second end of the belt, add small clips, but do not tighten them before tightening the belt.
Any additional tightening can be done with an additional twist spring.
After adding the belt, you can add the bed to the top of the bed frame using the bed spring leveling assembly.
At this point, the construction of the y-axis has been completed.
The x-axis will support the extruder and move from left to right.
There are a lot of laminate involved in the sliding Z-at both ends of the shaft-
For X-axis and support baraxis.
The following hardware is required for the X axis. There are two ends to this shaft, which I call mahogany ends (
This will be in line with the torque motor)
Only the Idler wheel end of the Gt2 timing belt and idler wheel is supported.
For those special plates, it can be identified by large holes with 4 holes next to them.
The laminated material dedicated to the Idler wheel end can be identified by 5 screw holes, or it can identify the compact without large holes.
Each end fits together like a lock.
As shown in the figure, arrange and connect the fragments together.
There are 9 layers of the main body.
Repeat these steps for the idle side.
Make sure to place the actual idler wheel at the top of the first layer (
When you\'re lying on other layers, use something like a toothpick to keep it in place.
At this point, 3 bearing blocks can be added to the linear bar and inserted into the components at both ends.
In my building I used a full metal angle bracket to support the MK8 extruder.
If you choose to use a different type of extruder and/or connector, the following steps may vary for your build.
The use of the angle bracket will be connected to three bearing blocks and available from AliExpress. There is a variant on Amazon that is only connected to two bearing blocks, but similar in the build.
Attach the bracket to the bearing block and insert two 25mm screws with the timing belt installed.
When connecting the timing belt, the wheel and roller around the name 17 (
At the other end)
Around the screws squeezed on the back of the extruder holder.
When folding teeth, should meet.
Clamp the two together with the small clip with 2 8mm screws and nuts.
When connecting the second end of the belt, add small clips, but do not tighten them before tightening the belt.
Any additional tightening can be done with an additional twist spring.
At this point, the entire x-axis has been completed and can be installed in Z-
Axis in the next step.
At this point, the entire frame, the y-axis and the x-axis are all done, and at this point we can build the Z-
We install the X axis. axis (
This needs to be done first.
The hardware requires the first stack of 3 mounting fillers and a corner stand that meets the film standard is installed on the frame (
Both sides do so).
Add 2 layers of standard-compliant brackets to the top of the angle bracket (
Slip into the gap in the frame)
Connect the 14mm to 8mm coupler to the AC shaft with 8 5mm ironing boards of mahogany stepping motors with 8mm screws/nuts. The next step will be a balancing action.
You can choose: add the screw and linear rod to the x-axis assembly and subtly place all 4 bars in the appropriate position. Add the rod to the appropriate position (
Not very strong but can stay if careful)
And slide on the x-axis assembly.
Add the NUT to each screw before adding the x-axis assembly (
Somewhere in the middle, preferably the same height).
Add adjustable Z-
End Stop assembly consisting of 4 lamite, mounted on a linear rod. The adjustable assembly is a 45mm screw, and the thumb nut and ballpoint pen spring closes the assembly with a top laminate that holds all 4 rods in place and connects to the frame.
The next step will be to discuss adding the y-axis component. At this point, the only thing missing is to connect the completed Y component to the main printer component. Put the y axis component in the frame.
Make sure that the two bolts on each rod are opened and on each side of the frame.
Lift the y axis assembly at a certain angle, and the extrusion screw will be in place below the screw on the frame and tighten the bolt.
Make sure that the back plate of the y axis assembly touches the screw on the back of the frame.
The final step is to attach the laminated clamp to the screw perimeter and the y-axis assembly.
The rest is to connect the MK8/MK7 extruder and end station.
Little secret: the ends are all pasted with hot glue.
Run for 4 years, no problem.
So you have it.
My first printer build is all ready for you.
This printer has been running for about 4 years and has never caused me any problems.
It prints the first part of my larger corxy printer, but still acts as my backup printer.
The following component parts of this design are re-designed
Use/re-design from 3rd Square.
Here is the list of used designs: nema17 corner bracket: extruder: pulley GT2 (
20 teeth, 5mm holes)
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